Many people now realize that using Wi-Fi is not wise – both for security and health reasons. Wired Ethernet-based internet access goes a long way toward solving these issues. However, even a wired internet system can cause health effects if setup incorrectly. This is because of the electromagnetic interference (EMI) that many new modems and routers create. This EMI travels along your Ethernet cable to your computer and can become just as problematic as Wi-Fi from a health perspective.
In this article, you will learn how to install a wired internet system that produces very little EMI. For electrically sensitive individuals, this will allow you to use your computer for longer periods of time without symptoms. For health-conscious people, this is the next step in creating a truly low-EMF home for you and your family.
Before we move on to recommended solutions, I want to explain the primary reasons why EMI is created by a wired internet system:
- Modems and routers all have a switched-mode power supply (SMPS) that is plugged into an outlet. The EMI created by this SMPS can travel along your electrical wiring and Ethernet cables. You can test this with an AM radio and electric field meter (pictured below).
- Newer “Gigabit” modems and routers that allow for “blazing fast internet speeds” of 500 or 1,000 mbps create excess high frequency EMI that travels along your Ethernet cable to your computer. Here is a technical explanation as to why this happens. Whenever possible, I suggest you use lower bandwidth equipment rated at 10/100 mbps. This is still fast enough to stream movies on Netflix or YouTube.
- In some offices and homes, companies will install Power Over Ethernet (PoE). This allows a small amount of electricity to flow through the Ethernet cables, typically to power a phone/modem system in separate rooms. Unfortunately, PoE cables are not shielded for the high amounts of EMI they carry and these systems are very unhealthy for users.
- Rather than using Wi-Fi or long, shielded Ethernet cables, some people use PLC (power-line communication) systems to transmit internet data around the home on the electrical wiring system. Unfortunately, these PLC systems create an incredibly high amount of EMI (“dirty electricity”) on your home wiring. This EMI then radiates into your living environment and is transmitted to your computer.
What Does EMI Look Like?
In the following images, you can see both high and low EMI readings for a wired laptop. The laptop is running on battery power and utilizes an external keyboard and mouse. The first picture shows very high electric field readings with a typical wired internet system. The second image shows healthy readings (ideally below 3 Volts/meter at your computer). Below the pictures, I explain exactly how to achieve these low EMI readings.
Electric field readings of over 100 V/m are highly problematic. Some people feel drained or experience headaches from sitting at their computer and this EMI issue can be the primary cause. Levels this high greatly reduce the amount of time I can spend on a computer without symptoms.
This electric field measurement was taken just a couple minutes later once the proper setup was in place. The only difference is there is now almost no EMI transmitted by the Ethernet cable. Electric field readings below 3 V/m are much healthier for any extended use of your computer.
How to Set Up a Low-EMF Internet Connection
I have experimented with a lot of computer equipment over the years to find brands and models that allow me to work with fewer symptoms. The following is a home internet system that creates low EMI, measured with both an electric field meter and AM radio.
- If your cable internet provider is any company except AT&T or Verizon, I suggest you get this Arris/Motorola Modem. It is the lowest bandwidth modem I have found at 172 mbps. This is still much more bandwidth than you can likely purchase from your internet provider. The modem is compatible with Comcast and transmits minimal low-frequency EMI from its SMPS. Update April 2018: Several readers have noted that the Arris modem noted above is no longer compatible with Comcast. Instead, I recommend the Arris Surfboard SB6141. You will also need a wired router such as this one in your setup as Comcast does not provide multiple IP addresses. This wired router works great for Spectrum/Charter customers.
- For your router, I would stay away from high-bandwidth devices (1 gigabit and above), such as Netgear routers (unless you occasionally need some wireless capability in your home). When I test these routers, they create an incredible amount of low and high frequency EMI on the Ethernet cables. This will be true for most “Gigabit” routers. Instead, I suggest that you use a simple, low-bandwidth Ethernet switch, such as this model from TP-Link. It is rated at 10/100 mbps, which is now considered slow. However, this is a good thing from an EMF health perspective! This is also more bandwidth than your Internet Service Provider is likely bringing to your home. The TP-Link switch created very little EMI in my tests.
- You will then need to purchase two Ethernet cables to connect to your laptop. The reason for purchasing two cables can be seen in the next step. I recommend these thin, shielded Cat-7 cables. Two 25-foot cables are ideal, but you can get shorter or longer cables based on your needs. You will also need a short cable to place between your modem and the Ethernet switch.
- The final step to have a low-EMF internet connection is to utilize an Ethernet ground adapter. This ground adapter will be placed in between your two Ethernet cables and will ground most of the lower-frequency EMI (below 1 MHz) so that it is not being transmitted to your computer. You will run the first Ethernet cable from your switch to the ground adapter. Then you will run your second cable from the ground adapter to your computer. Here is a picture showing what the ground adapter looks like. Note that LessEMF now also has their own Ethernet ground adapter.
An Ethernet Ground Adapter will reduce much of the EMI flowing to your computer.
[The above video will show you some of the steps I take to reduce the EMI at my computer.]
[This new video shows you the specific items that will allow you to ground your Ethernet connection if you do not have access to an electrical ground in your home. You will need two shielded CAT-7 or CAT-6 cables, a ground adapter, a gator-to-gator clip, a 50′ extension cable and a thin 2′ copper stake that you can buy at your local hardware store. The total cost for this setup is approximately $75. If you create your own system, just make sure you have metal-to-metal all the way to the ground outside and that the electric fields at your computer are below 2 V/m.]
Whether you are electrically sensitive or you simply want to have a healthier home for your family, the above solution will make quite a difference. Many people are now aware that Wi-Fi is dangerous. However, microwave radiation from wireless technology is only one part of the EMF equation. Electromagnetic interference can be just as problematic and could be the reason why you experience symptoms from computer use. Hopefully this article will help you have a truly healthy, low-EMF internet connection for many years to come.
Note: If you would like to obtain an EMF meter to check the electric fields at your computer, I suggest either the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B or ME3851A (pictured above). Use the coupon code EMFA-10 for a 10% discount on your purchase. I also suggest the Radio Shack AM Radio Model 12-467 that can be found on ebay. You can always contact me to discuss how to do this.
You can download a printable PDF of this article here.
This article was updated April 2018.
Ruth Ruddock
Jeromy, we do not have a cable internet service…we have Hughes Net Satellite service. The signal comes in from the dish on a cable. It is wired in by ethernet cable to a NetGear splitter that goes to each of our two computers. The computer is plugged into a non-grounded outlet, but we can move the computer (mine) to another area of the house where the outlet is grounded.
Does your information still apply to us, or not.
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Ruth,
Yes, you can still use this setup. First, you would want to measure the EMI to see if you actually have an issue. If you don’t feel great at your computer, this could be the reason.
Then I would use the low-speed Ethernet switch mentioned above and the Ethernet ground adapter.
This should reduce any EMI on your home internet system.
Jeromy
Deb DeBiase
Ruth I also have HughesNet. It comes in the house as you say–via cable, but mine goes to a HughesNet modem and then to a splitter. Am I reading correctly that you do not use their modem at all, you go straight to the splitter? They set me up with their modem before the splitter even though both my husband and I use hard-wired computers and no wireless. Maybe I can ditch it! ??
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
Give them a call to see if this possible. I would like to know for other readers.
Generally, a modem is always needed for the data coming into the home.
One suggestion is to still use the TP-Link ethernet switch mention in point #2 above. This will likely reduce the EMI produced by our modem that is coming to your computers.
Jeromy
Deb DeBiase
Jeromy,
I will visit my calmest head-space and give Hughes a call…LOL. Hopefully if will not be like pulling teeth to get a concise and accurate answer!
Stay tuned for the results.
Also, I am just beginning to build my safer network. I have been asked by my husband to provide for a wireless connection , but in the safest manner . One that can be turned off. I appreciate so much the helpful resource you have created here on this site… I am reading past posts for now…
Deb DeBiase
I called Hughes and Yes the modem is necessary. However a router is not if the computer is hardwired. For some reason I am using a router in between the modem and our wired computers. Busily blasting a signal I imagine. I recently looked for an On/Off switch and did not see one. Just “Power”. Probably have a Router there because I did not know a simple splitter would be sufficient, which is to say I did not ask the right questions to the person who set me up. Plus I did not fully comprehend the risks of WiFi. Learning now……
Deb DeBiase
I called HughesNet. It is not possible to give the Modem a pass.
Comcast is coming to my neighborhood. I am trying to decide if we are defecting to them. If so I want to get the initial set up correct and safe from the get-go. . In any event, I going to clean up the EMF around this house, and I’m very happy to have found this site and blog! I will be a work in progress…..
Chris
It sounds like Ruth has Gen4 service and you have Gen5. We used to have Gen4 and with that you needed a router to come off the modem. With Gen5, the modem also doubles as the router.
AJ
Hi Jeromy,
What do you think about Lloyd Burrell’s review of the HF35C meter? He’s saying that it doesn’t cover the entire frequency range and measurement units are not v/m which he says is optimal for health. http://www.electricsense.com/7881/hf35c-emf-meter-my-review-gigahertz-solutions/
I would greatly appreciate knowing your opinion as I don’t want to spend lots of money on the wrong meter.
Thank you
AJ
Jeromy
Hey AJ,
There are two mid-level RF meters worth getting. The HF35C and the Accoustimeter.
I like the HF35C best for its ability to determine where sources are located and its sensitivity.
The Accoustimeter does have a wider frequency range (will pick up the 5.0 GHz WiFi), but some tests have shown it is not as accurate in that wider frequency range as stated. The Accoustimeter is also not as sensitive as as the HF35C, but it is still a good meter to have.
Whether a meter is reading in V/m or uW/m^2 (microwatts per meter squared) is not that important. What is important is that the meter is able to measure peak power density levels. Both of these meters can do this.
You can get either meter here for around $300 with the code EMFA-10 at checkout. With this 10% discount, it will be the best price you can find for either meter:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/AcoustimeterAM-10.aspx
Both of these meters will be much better than the Cornet ED88T for RF, but not as accurate or sensitive as the professional RF meters that are over $1,000.
Good luck,
Jeromy
AJ
Thank you Jeromy.
I’m interested in purchasing some of the meters you recommend. Regarding the body voltage meter, I’m not sure which version to get, the one with the ground stake or without?
“3.) For Electric Fields via body voltage, I recommend the Body Voltage Meter with grounding chord for $109. You can buy a 2 foot copper grounding wire for $1 at your local hardware store for your ground.”
Do you mean that the 2 foot copper grounding wire replaces the grounding chord or is needed to work with the grounding chord?
I’m reading on lessemf.com that the ground stake is recommended when “- You have voltage or dirty electricity on your ground lines or You don’t trust the ground in your building”. Any idea how likely this is, for the ground line in the average home to have dirty electricity?
Also, my brother works long hours in a mall and it’s not possible for him to ground to the earth. I want to test body electricity for him because I suspect there may be smart meters or faulty electrical wiring in his work area but I’m not sure if the ground line is reliable. What would you recommend?
Thank you,
AJ
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
Yes, you can make your own grounding rod with a basic copper wire from the hardware store.
I am no longer a big fan of the body voltage test. It’s a bit misleading in how important body voltage is. Also, the utility ground wire is often not that reliable for this test.
Instead, go with the meters I suggest above that directly measure magnetic, electric, RF and EMI (dirty electricity) fields.
Jeromy
AJ
Thanks Jeromy. For magnetic & electric fields, you write that the Alpha Labs UHS2 is better than Gigahertz Solutions ME3851A. Do they both do the same thing? Are you saying that you recommend getting the UHS2 rather than the ME3851A?
AJ
Also, regarding the AlphaLab Line EMI Meter, there is some info on the shopping page that conflicts what you have written on your site & your comments regarding Stetzerizer Meters. They say “It doesn’t appear to take into consideration frequency or time very well, so its usefulness for truly measuring the energy being presented by power line EMI (dirty electricity) compared to the Stetzerizer Microsurge Meter is still unclear. For this reason, we do not recommend this meter as a replacement for the Stetzerizer Microsurge Meter.”
Just wondering if I still need the Stetzerizer meter. Thanks a lot for your helpfulness & patience with answering questions.
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
The Stetzerizer company is used to selling their own meter, so they downplay the Alpha Labs model. I would purchase from here because you get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10:
http://slt.co/Products/PowerLineMeters/LineEMIMeter.aspx
This is the best price possible.
Also, if you get the ME3851A, then you have a good Gauss meter and electric field meter in one. The UHS2 is great (3-Axis), but unless you have lots of money, I would just get the ME3851A:
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/ME3851A.aspx
Note that if you get the HF35C for RF and the following carrying case for both your RF meter and the ME3851A, you will have a great meter setup for your personal use.
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeterAccessories/MeterCaseK5.aspx
Jeromy
AJ
Jeromy, so the UHS2 measures only magnetic, NOT electric? If I got the UHS2, would I need another meter for electric?
Thank you
AJ
Jeromy
AJ – Yes, it only measure magnetic fields. You would need another meter (like the ME3851A or ME3830) to measure electric fields.
You could get a body voltage meter for electric fields, but it is pretty limited in what it actually measures.
Jeromy
AJ
I have found your page on How to Measure Dirty Electricity. Our readings throughout the house are between 1350 and 1550 mV. I can even hear what sounds like a radio station. Is this typical for an average home? Do you have any suggestions on how to find any devices or appliances that are causing the issue?
AJ
Jeromy, I ordered the Alpha Lab EMI Meter from ElectraHealth.com (Stetzerizer-US.com) and they sent me just the meter and cable in a box without case and without guide. I have no idea what to do. Just plug it in the wall? How do I know what levels are acceptable and what are not?
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I suggest that you either read my book or book a session with me here. The book is on this page too.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
Amir Borenstein
Just noticed a few days ago that when I play videos on my computers (from the net) the FM radio becomes very noisy (It is usually on in my house). I guessed that there are some EMI emissions from the network cables in my house. I told myself that some day I will connect the ground of the network cables to the ground in my house. Now, since you have shown that this can actually work I will go and do so.
Thank you and best regards,
Amir Borenstein
PT
I was taught to take aluminum foil tape and wrap it around the ends of all wires/plugs where they come out of the outlet. It supposedly reduces longitudinal waves (exotic waves). Doing this in a room makes it much more comfortable for me. I also drape a piece of Aaronia 2000 over the modem and power supply which also helps.
TB
Very interesting PT — so are you essentially taping where the electrical plug inserts into the electrical socket in the wall — and sealing any electrical leakage?
Jeromy
The issue with this is that it won’t necessarily reduce the EMI being transmitted on your Ethernet cables from the modem/router. You will only know if this is happening by measuring the EMI as I outline above.
Barb Payne
Thanks, Jeromy.
Does this reduce the computer user’s EMF exposure only if it’s that his/her computer is NOT plugged into a grounded electrical outlet?
For example, if a user always uses a desktop computer that has a 3-prong power cable plugged into a grounded electrical outlet, will there be an exposure-reduction benefit for the user if set up as you’ve explained in this new post? [Even if the answer is “no” re the user, would there be a emission-reduction benefit improving the environment wherever in the building the modem and the ethernet cable are, or maybe everywhere in the building because the modem is connected to the building’s electrical system?]
Same question for if the desktop computer has only a 2-prong power cable?
Same question for if it’s a portable computer that has a 3-prong power cable?
Same question for if it’s a portable computer that has a 2-prong power cable?
In appreciation,
Barb
Jeromy
Hi Barb,
The short answer is that you really only know by measuring as I outline above. For healthy computer use, you want to make sure that your electric field exposure is low (bottom picture above).
It does help to have your desktop grounded through the plug, but you are also begin subjected to more electric fields when it is plugged in. This is why you want the desktop computer away from your body/desk.
For laptop computers, I always recommend that you use battery power and do not have it plugged in while you are using it. Then you just need to reduce any EMI coming through your Ethernet system.
Jeromy
Barb Payne
Oh yes, my desktop computer is 5 to 6 feet away from me (with corded mouse and corded keyboard). My screen is about 3 feet away from me (and contains no audio speakers). My USB audio speakers are 3 and 4 feet away from me, powered by separate electrical cord, and I turn off the power to them whenever not actively using them.
And I only use my laptop on battery power, and with a separate corded keyboard and corded mouse so that I can push the laptop farther away from me. I keep the laptop’s audio speakers turned off unless absolutely necessary to use them. I keep the laptop’s screen brightness at the lowest setting. [I think it’s unconscionable how high the magnetic field emissions of laptop hard drives are allowed to be… directly where usually most users are for long periods of time actively touching the machine and resting at least one hand/wrist/arm, plus if it’s a child or other short person using the laptop then all his/her upper body (including head) are swamped by that massive MF.]
I think many people get so wrapped up in reducing RF/wireless that they neglect prudently avoiding the other types of EMFs. So it’s great you posted this new article, Jeromy.
Also turning audio speakers off — whether they’re independent or built into the screen — I find significantly reduces emissions and significantly increases comfort. Even choosing a lower volume makes a significant improvement.
Also, modern corded computer cameras/microphones — for sure the accessory USB ones, I don’t know for sure about the built-in ones but I think so — whatever types of waves they emit (I guess, to enhance noise-filtering and visual quality), I find them excruciating. So I stick with an old Logitech microphone (USB powered), no camera, and make sure that all the sound and photo/video enhancing settings on my desktop and laptop are set to OFF.
Jeromy
You have nearly the perfect computer set up Barb. Great work!
Do you also add Flux to your screen to lessen the blue light? I even use it during the day:
https://justgetflux.com/
I use the blue light reducing glasses at night at well. See #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
I’m learning quite a bit from Dave Asprey’s new book as well. Lots of things that help us offset the effects of EMF exposure:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0062652419/
Jeromy
Barb Payne
I don’t use flux, but I keep my desktop screen set to be not bright and on its “warm” tone setting. If I’m doing graphic design work where maybe it matters to try to see a more true color on-screen, I change the settings only for those moments.
Yes, I got bluelight-blocking glasses a while ago and have been forgetting to wear them. I was pleasantly surprised to find a company locally here in Toronto, Canada that seems to be in existence solely to provide such glasses. The company is named Somnitude. The quality seems superb. And the company is a pleasure to deal with—goes beyond one’s expectations. https://blueblockglasses.com/collections/all. I ordered the “fitover” style because I wear reading glasses. I’m very happy with the fit. I notice that one of their four models is even a kids/youth size.
I don’t know whether or not the following is correct, but I feel it makes a similar effect as the bluelight-blocking eyewear—at least for me. If I turn on the salt lamp in my home office space after dark, it casts light throughout the room that is a hue similar to when wearing the bluelight-blocking eyewear. Yes, I realize a salt lamps might be making me feel good in other ways, but I do think the contra-blue hue of the light might be another salt lamp benefit.
Thanks very much for the tip on the new book. My mitochondria and I will check it out tomorrow. I see that my local bricks-and-mortar bookstore claims to have 3 copies.
In appreciation,
Barb
TB
Thanks so much Jeromy, great article! 2 questions please:
1) Can I just use one grounding device between the original ethernet cable exiting the modem and going into the router? Would one “grounder” here cut the dirty electricity on the other ethernet cables exiting the router?
2) The homemade device in the video looks much more solid than the one from Less EMF — would you agree?
Thanks and all the best, Terry
Jeromy
I agree that the Ethernet ground adapter pictured above is the best route to go. I have not tried the LessEMF one yet as it’s a brand new product.
You will place the Ethernet ground adapter between your router/Ethernet switch and your laptop. This is why you need two Ethernet cables for this segment as the ground adapter will split them.
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
Hi Jeromy,
Thanks for the info here. One more question about connecting the ground adapter.
Does the ground adapter need to be 1/2 way between the router/Ethernet switch and the computer, or can we have a 3 foot shielded cable coming off the switch, then the ground, then a 25 or 50 foot cable to a distant computer?
Thanks so much for all the help!
Stephanie
Jeromy
Hi Stephanie,
You should be just fine with that setup.
One thing you want to consider is using the shortest Ethernet cables possible for your computer setup. The technical reason is that cables are very effective radiators of common mode EMI (they become excellent antennas). And, the longer the cable, the more easily it radiates the higher frequency EMI.
You should be fine with a 50 foot cable (I use one in my setup). But, use the 25′ cable if it will reach. When people move to 100 foot and longer, there could be an issue.
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
I called to order the grounding kit, and was told by Shawn that I do not need to ground my 2 desktops, only laptops need to be grounded this way. (?)
We have 2 desktops, so not needing the grounding kit saved me $50 + s/h. He did say I needed to buy the good shielded cables, which I will. -Just double checking-
Stephanie
Jeromy
Stephanie,
It is different with desktops because they are always plugged-in and grounded. You are also generally not right next to a desktop, like you are with a laptop.
The above setup with the Ethernet adapter is meant to prevent the lower-frequency EMI created by your modem/router from travelling to your computer and affecting you. The only way to know if this is happening is to measure (as you seen in the pictures in the article).
Do you have an electric field meter like the ones I suggest above?
Jeromy
Stephanie Dickerson
Jeromy,
I do not have an electric field meter. I will need to purchase one and will soon.
My computer is bothering me now and hadn’t for the past few years, but from reading your article, I realize my new modem and cable internet may be the reason.
Question- I need a modem/router for cable internet and phone and 3 ports, but can only find these with WiFi included. Can I open up the modem and disconnect the WiFi chip like I did on my desktop and laptops? Have you done this?
Thanks!
Stephanie
Jeromy
Hi Stephanie,
It is very common that new equipment is what is causing new/additional symptoms.
My suggestion is to go with the exact setup I have above. This will give you cable and 3-4 ethernet ports, all with low-EMI.
For phone, I would get a separate real landline connection (not through our modem and ISP). This will also be a healthier setup from an EMI perspective. It should cost you about $20/month.
As for opening up a router/modem and taking out the WiFi antenna, I suppose it could be done but would void an warranties, could cause damage to the device (fire risk?) and may not work in the end. Disabling the WiFi is also difficult as some ISPs turn it back on automatically every month through system updates (Comcast Xfinity for instance).
In general, you want your own equipment that doesn’t have any of the microwave components to begin with.
The more simple and low-tech, the better from a health perspective.
Jeromy
Sandy Matuschak
This article mentioned Verizon & AT&T. What if your provider is one of those?
Jeromy
Sandy,
I would talk with the those providers to see if there are any modems you can purchase on your own that will work with their system. If so, get the lowest speed modem.
If you you must use their modem (as is usual with AT&T), then I would disable the Wi-Fi, use the low-speed Ethernet switch mentioned above and use the Ethernet ground adapter. This should reduce the EMI coming from the AT&T modem/router.
GS
Great article. I would just add that many houses, especially many older houses, have wiring issues, which results in strong electric fields emanating from the wiring into the center of the room. Wiring issues (particularly poorly grounded outlets) can also cause an increase EMI on Ethernet cables.
It’s a good idea to purchase an inexpensive wall outlet tester and test each outlet in the house. If you purchase an EMF meter like one of the ones Jeromy shows, you can also test the electric fields in the room. Very few electricians understand how to repair wiring problems to fix the problem of strong EMF fields, though they are out there.
If you have high EMF fields from faulty wiring, you can use a workaround and shield the walls in sensitive areas (e.g., bedrooms) by placing metal screen door wiring against the wall and grounding it with a grounding cable that plugs into a wall outlet. It’s unsightly but effective. The problem of faulty wiring is so common that it’s a good idea to test properties before you purchase or sign a lease.
Jeromy
Indeed, one of the most important things we can do is make sure our home is low-EMF. I mention the basics of this here and usually recommend that a professional comes to your home:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-create-a-healthy-home/
For shielding the electric fields from your home wiring, look at the Ex-Static fabric seen in #2 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Thanks for your comment GS.
JD
Thanks for this Jeromy.
You recommended a Netgear C3700 with an off/off switch for wireless capacity, which I have been using for ethernet at home (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-DOCSIS-Cable-Router-C3700-100NAS/dp/B00IF0JAYE)
Do you now suggest replacing it?
Thanks,
John
Jeromy
Hi John,
Yes, I would recommend replacing it now with this new information. I was not aware of how much EMI the NetGear routers create until testing them the past few months.
Live and learn. I am sorry for the inconvenience.
The good news is that the best replacement is the Ethernet switch mentioned above, which is only $10.
Jeromy
Natasha
Thank you so much for this information. We do not have Wi-Fi in our home.
Is the Ethernet ground adapter necessary then for us, or is the USB ground to cord effective?
https://www.lessemf.com/computer.html#295-USB?
Jeromy
Natasha,
The USB to Ground chord will help to ground some of the electric fields being generated by your computer.
However, the issue being raised with this article is the EMI coming from your router/modem. The only way to truly know is to test with on the Gigahertz Solutions electric field meters as seen above.
I would have one of these as they will help you understand what is really going on in your environment.
Jeromy
William Croft
Great innovations Jeromy, I’ll be sharing this with electro-sensitive friends.
Jeromy
Thanks William. My take is that we are all at various stages of electrical sensitivity. All humans are electrically sensitive – it’s just that most don’t feel it yet or have not had big exposures (or don’t realize what is causing their headaches or insomnia).
My hope is that very healthy people will eventually take this info to heart (similar to eating organic, non-GMO food). Preventative measures will keep us healthy as this technology expands in our society.
Skyler
Hi Jeromy!
I’m using Ethernet only (w/o PoE), with a “Zoom” cable modem and a Netgear N750 Gigabit Router w/ wireless switched OFF. To minimize having to string so much ethernet cable along the floors throughout the house, I’ve been using a MoCA Network Adapter to take advantage of easy connectivity via the Coax outlets already installed in our house.
What, if any, changes would you suggest for this configuration?
Thanks,
Skyler
Jeromy
Skyler,
Great question.
My main concern would be the Netgear Gigabit router. This is likely transmitting some of the low-frequency EMI from the switched-mode power supply, plus the higher frequency EMI from the high speed “gigabit” internet.
Can you replace the Netgear router with the basic Ethernet switch mentioned above in point #2? The would likely reduce a lot of the EMI.
Have you measured the electric fields at your computers in each room? This is the ultimate test.
Keep us posted,
Jeromy
Dan
Skyler,
Thanks for mentioning MoCa – I’m going to look into that as a replacement for the TrendNET and TP-LINK PowerLine adapters I’ve been using. One house I was setting up had horrible PowerLine performance on their wiring, and my furthest reach is only about 8Mbps, so I’m very interested in testing this out on my coax. I’m curious what sort of bandwidth you’ve achieved.
Jeromy – if I’m using a switch and one ethernet cable plugged into it is grounded, does that ground all of them? I’m not sure if all cables share a ground, but my guess would be yes. Also, some (but not many) switches have a ground clip on them, which I think could be used for the same purpose.
All I have to test for this is TriField and AM radio; not finding much yet.
Dan
Jeromy
Dan,
First, the TriField meter is basically only good for low-frequency magnetic fields. It’s useless for electric fields and RF.
The AM radio (if a Radio Shack model 12-467) will pick up EMI at 500 KHz (when tuned all the way to the left on AM) and 2 MHz (when tuned all the way to the right on the dial).
I highly recommend a decent electric field meter as mentioned above from Gigahertz Solutions. That way you can test if grounding the Ethernet switch or just one Ethernet cable will actually reduce the low-frequency EMI on your Ethernet systems. Without testing, we are going blind.
Finally, do your best to have a low bandwidth modem/router so that you have less of the high frequency EMI. Read this as to why:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-gigabit-routers-create-emi/
Paul Vonharnish
Wouldn’t it be great if electronics engineers, racketeers, and profiteers would get a clue, and quit designing junk equipment that kills people and other living things?
The IEEE has more than enough information regarding EMF health exposure issues, yet they and Underwriters Laboratory’s (UL) insist on providing death traps to the public at large… These persons and the companies who employ them; seriously need to be sued into the ground…
As a former analog electronics engineer, I’ve always been quite aware of issues encountered with pulsed digital signal processing. All bench equipment needed to incorporate specialized bench supplies and shielded test probes in order to perform realistic analog measurement. IEEE engineers know this information before they even graduate from tech schools. How can they “believe” biological cells aren’t affected? Biological cells are triggered at 25 nano-volts per square centimeter or less…
Jeromy, It’s great that you’ve dedicated yourself to informing the public. Most harmful EMF chaff entering people’s environments is bleeding in through building wiring and cable grounds. Even water pipes from municipal utilities can carry EMF chaff into homes and businesses.
Some links and articles of interest:
Video film and extended discussion: Mike Holt discusses Stray Voltage – YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAs_FmdxXhQ&feature=watch-vrec
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov:80/pmc/articles/PMC3184892/
http://www.cellphonetaskforce.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/environmental-impacts-of-stray-voltage.pdf
Jeromy
Thanks for your insightful comment, Paul. Much appreciated.
Indeed, EMI and low-frequency magnetic fields are likely the biggest reason for bad health outcomes and electrical sensitivity for many affected people.
Add in the exponential rise in microwave exposures the past ten years, and it’s a perfect storm for health problems and chronic disease.
Society will eventually wake up to this. It’s already happening.
Lumiel
Jeromy,
Thank you for helping us with your research! The office I will be working in beginning next month is set up with Wi-Fi from AT&T.
For years I have protected myself from EMR by wearing a catalyst bead on my person at all times, placing similar but strong devices like the bead (from EMFblues) on my laptop, in my car, and in my purse and luggage while traveling. I also set up a “Clearfield Plate” that broadcasts harmonizing energy through a large area if I’m to spend much time in a Wi-Fi area. These protective devices have been muscle-tested to show that they harmonize these electromagnetic waves so that the human body in this range isn’t harmed. Do you have any experience with this sort of device?
I’d like to feel that I don’t need to find a way to ask for a major internet setup change where I am working, if possible, and your input on this question is valuable to me.
Jeromy
Hi Lumiel,
You bring up a common question: Rather than reduce and eliminate EMF exposures, can we just wear something or place something around us that will magically protect us. After all, there are now hundreds of such devices on the market.
I wish it were that easy, but it’s not. Individually and as a society, we are going to have to figure out how to reduce EMF exposures, rather than use wishful thinking or denial.
For your office setting, I encourage you to ask to sit as far away from the routers as possible. You will also want to have you computer wired, etc.
Some truly wise and forward-thinking businesses are starting to pay attention to this issue. Having healthy, productive employees is in their best financial interest. Get your employer to do the same thing.
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy,
If I am moving to a new place and I need to get my own internet connection set up, what company would you recommend me to get my internet through?
If I am going for the TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D) mentioned above, I understand it means that I do not have any Wi-Fi options at all?
Can I plug a few laptops in it, which means I would need more shielded Cat-7 cables? Do I need more short cables, as well?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
1.) I would go with a regional carrier that allows you to purchase your own equipment. This saves you the $10 monthly rental fee (you can get your own equipment for about $100) and it gives you more flexibility. I generally prefer Comcast over AT&T because you have to use AT&T’s modem/router. With Comcast, you just have them bring the internet to the home and you can choose all your equipment (like the set up I have outlined above). Read this article as well:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
2.) Yes, you won’t have any Wi-Fi ability if you only use the Ethernet switch.
3.) With the Ethernet switch, you can run Ethernet cables to four computers. You can get eight or ten port switches as well if you have more computers than that.
You will only need one cable to go from your modem to the Ethernet switch.
Hope that helps!
Jeromy
Renee
Jeromy,
I have been on the phone with Time Warner/Spectrum and Arris for several hours today trying to get the Arris SB6141 and the TP TL-SF1005D connected to 3 laptops. They were only able to connect one device at a time. Using the Arris SB6121 they couldn’t connect any devices.
When I go back to using the Time Warner modem, the TP switch works fine with all of the computers.
Spectrum said we may have a problem connecting all devices at the same time without a router in addition to the modem & switch, while Arris said it should work.
In addition, Spectrum will not come to my house because we’re not using their modem.
What am I missing? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Renee
Jeromy
Hi Renee,
It seems that the Arris modem is not as compatible with Spectrum as they advertise.
Why not just use the Time Warner modem? As long as it is not WiFi enabled, that seems like your best route for now.
You should not need a router. The TP Link switch will do the splitting for you to separate computers. It appear that there is just a compatibility issue between Spectrum and Arris.
If you want to discuss and see if we can trouble shoot, you can book a session here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
My best,
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy,
I called TP-Link and they also told me that since the Arris modem does not have a router in it, the TP-Link switch will not work with more than one device at a time. They said I need to go from the modem to a router and then to the TP-Link switch.
I really want to try and replace the Spectrum supplied modem/router because it is very noisy when measuring it with an AM radio.
My next step will be to try a wired router byTRENDnet (TW100-S4W1CA) along with the Arris modem.
Best,
Renee
Jeromy
Thanks for letting me know Renee.
My setup with the Arris modem (in the article above) and the TP-Link splitter works just fine with multiple devices.
If adding in your own wired router is necessary with your system, at least there is a solution.
Jeromy
Renee
I am still on my quest to find out why the TP-Link switch won’t work with Spectrum and will work with Comcast.
The only thing I can come up with is that Spectrum says I need more than one IP address on my residential account to bypass having to use a router and use the switch instead for multiple devices. But, the only way to get more than one IP address is to set up a 2nd and 3rd residential account or a business account (very expensive).
It looks like Comcast used to allow more than one IP address for residential customers but no longer does. I wonder if you have more than one IP address, which allows you to use the TP-Link in the way describe.
Thanks,
Renee
Dominic Bere
Hi Jeromy,
I’ve earthed my router through its USB port. As far as I know, this works just as well as an Ethernet ground adapter.
What do you think?
Jeromy
Hi Dominic,
I have not tried this yet, but if you are grounding the router into the same outlet where the router SMPS is plugged in, some of that low frequency EMI can still be transmitted from the router along your Ethernet cables to your computer.
Do you have an electric field meter to test?
The other issue the type of router you are using. If it is one of the “gigabit” routers I mention above, grounding the router will not reduce the high frequency EMI being created by the router and transmitted along your ethernet cables.
To learn more about this phenomena, read this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-gigabit-routers-create-emi/
This is why the simple setup I have outline above seems to work best. I’ve tried quite a few versions and this works really well for me.
Jeromy
Dominic Bere
Sorry I’ve taken so long to get back. I don’t have an electric field meter to test I’m afraid, only the level of my tinnitus, which is an accurate guide.
I wanted to have all the electricity off in my house as much as possible a while back, and so I wanted to find a way to run my computer and router without mains electricity. I noticed my router ran on one amp and 12 volts, and I realized I could probably run it on torch batteries. I had a couple of battery holders lying around that I had bought from China in case they came in handy one day, and one of them took 8 AA batteries and therefore would deliver the required 12 volts if I could find a way of connecting the free wires to the router. The power input socket on the router would not take a normal size power jack, it was much smaller than that. I had bought myself a Suaoki Solar Panel Bag a little while before, and it came with a couple of standard power cables and an array of adaptors for laptops and other devices. Among these I found an adaptor which fitted the router. So all I needed now was to connect a standard power jack to the wires from the battery holder and I’d be away. I found you can get power jacks with screw-connectors off eBay – also from China. When these came through the post I screwed the jack to the battery holder – no soldering necessary thank goodness – put 8 rechargeable AA batteries in the holder, plugged the power jack into the adapter, and plugged it into the router. To my delight it worked – but to my dismay my tinnitus stepped up many-fold!
I struggled on for a long time, unable to believe my tinnitus was really caused by that. I convinced myself for a while that it had always been as loud and I just hadn’t noticed it. But after a while I had to admit – it was the new setup. I had never known tinnitus right in the middle of my head like this before. I racked my brains to find out what could be wrong with my setup – and then I remembered, devices need to be earthed. At first I thought the router must formerly have been earthing itself through the earth terminal on the plug when I was using the mains – but inspection showed that the earth terminal was plastic. In spite of this, I believe that it must have been at least partially earthing through the other terminals, and this partial earthing had also been earthing the computer. When battery-powered, neither router nor computer had any connection with the earth whatever. I experimented with earthing the computer and/or the router, and in the end struck on the USB port on the router as the ideal earth for both.
The Ethernet cable has always been far and away the worst offender for me, and therefore to earth the router seemed the obvious choice. I believe I must have found it reduced my tinnitus by at least as much as any other other strategy, though I can’t remember the details.
I did not carry on this setup for very long, however, because I did not like the way the batteries would suddenly be too low to run the router, and there was no way of anticipating exactly when this would happen. They lasted about an eight hour day but it was extra work recharging them and the battery casings were being damaged every time I took them out of the battery holder and replaced them. Everything that is made to hold AA batteries is just a little too small for rechargeable ones. The difference in size between rechargeable and non-rechargeable is very small, but it is enough to make you feel awful about damaging the former each time you squeeze them in and out.
At that time I was also considering buying a 50,000 mAh MaxOak Power Bank for my computer, so that I could run it throughout the day disconnected from the mains. When I noticed it had a 12 V outlet as well as a 20 volt one, I realized I would be able to run the router from it at the same time as the computer. It didn’t quite work out like that because the Power Bank would switch off automatically if ever the only current being drawn from it was the tiny trickle going to the router. You would have thought plugging it simultaneously into the computer and into the router would have caused enough current be drawn to keep it awake, but when idle the computer uses virtually nothing whatever – the latest Intel processors use 50% less electricity – and the situation is complicated by the fact that only a Dell Power Bank will actually charge the Dell XPS13 touchscreen that I have got – others will only run the computer but not charge it, meaning as soon as it idles the current it pulls ceases abruptly. I don’t know if this applies to other Dell computers or only my model, but I do know it is something to do with the touchscreen, because the MaxOak will charge a non-touchscreen XPS13.
I think I’ve found a way around this problem however. Since I switch my electricity off at night – and once or twice during the day – it is problematic making yogurt which needs a long unbroken period of gentle warmth. But I spotted an USB powered mug warmer a few weeks ago on eBay and suddenly realized that I could solve two problems in one stroke.
It takes weeks for anything to come from China but it is due any day now and then I will find out whether it draws just the right amount of current to keep the MaxOak Power Bank awake – enabling it to run the router – while at the same time fermenting a jar of yogurt. It also must not draw too much electricity, or I will have to keep turning the mains on just to recharge the Power Bank.
So that’s my story. Oh, and it’s not a gigabit router I’ve got, just an ordinary old-style one. I don’t want anything particularly fast. I hope this is interesting to you. Actually it is all in preparation for living somewhere off-grid far away in another land. Everything in my life is geared towards that end-goal. Currently I am studying internet security, and it is very hard work for me.
Phil
Hi Jeromy (and any other reader).
When I turn on my computer I get a massive list of available wireless connections on the National Broadband system from surrounding homes.
Does this mean there is no value for me to change to cabled connection and turn off my own WiFi?
I installed two Geocleanse in my power supply, but I now wonder if even this is of any value to me.
Phil, Australia
Jeromy
Hi Phil,
Great question.
Your computer and phone can sometimes detect WiFi power densities as low as -100 dB. This is 0.00001 microwatts per meter squared (uW/m^2).
Most RF meters are only sensitive to 0.1 uW/m^2 and that is generally the limits of biological studies on RF exposure.
So, my point is that just because your computer or phone is picking up a signal from a neighbor 500 feet away, it doesn’t necessarily mean that signal is having a profound effect on your health.
Generally, what matters most are the routers within about 50 feet of you. These will be powerful enough to be of concern.
The biggest issue, however, is the WiFi antenna in your own computer. This is by far your biggest exposure source if you use WiFi. Many people forget this, thinking they only need to think about their router down in the basement.
Definitely setup your own Ethernet based system for computer use in your own home. I outline how to easily do this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
As for the products you mention, in my opinion they are a waste of money. They are simply playing on people’s fear and misunderstanding of this subject. Reduction and elimination of EMF is the only thing that works. The good thing is you can do this in your own home.
Finally, I suggest that everyone has at least a basic RF meter. This will help you know if a neighbor’s WiFi is too close or if you accidentally have an antenna on in your home.
Get this meter: http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88T-esh.html
Or one of these, which are slightly better:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/AcoustimeterAM-10.aspx
Use the code at the bottom of the article above for a discount.
Hope that clarifies things for you.
Jeromy
Barb Payne
Hi Jeromy,
At the bottom of your reply to Phil, you mentioned there’s a discount code at the bottom of the How To Install Wired Internet article, but I didn’t find it. Please give me a hint where I’m not seeing the code 🙂
Thanks,
Barb
Jeromy
Sorry – I meant the bottom of this article (just scroll up).
It’s EMFA-10 for a 10% discount at SLT.co.
Jeromy
Gloria Frank
Hi Jeromy,
I have now read your wonderful article, and I am now educated, and I understand what EMI is, but I am not sure if this is an easy install, or difficult for someone who is not tech savvy. Please advise.
Thank you for all your dedication to help the growing number of people globally that are struggling just to live in a safe and healthy environment. Our human rights have been taken from us, and no one should have to face the magnitude of all the man-made wireless technology to survive on Mother Earth. It saddens me greatly.
With much appreciation, Gloria Frank
PS: I will use your amazing website to teach others about EMI!
Jeromy
Hi Gloria,
The good thing for non-technical people is that, as long as you don’t have AT&T or Verizon for your internet service, you can follow the exact instructions in the 4 points above, use the products I link to, and have a very low-EMI internet setup.
The total cost is $150.
Hopefully this will easily help anyone who reads this to have a healthy internet setup.
Jeromy
Maria
I have an iPad and cell phone. Can I lower the EMF from these devices. If so, how?
Jeromy
Hi Maria,
Indeed, read these articles for your iPad and cell phone:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/guide-to-safer-cell-phones/
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Thanks for asking.
Jeromy
juan
Hi Jeromy,
I deeply appreciate all your work, thanks for making us conscious and looking after our health and life quality. I am really grateful.
I truly believe it’s a huge issue that is becoming bigger by the day. And, like any other big issues it depends on each of us.
Have you heard or orgonite for EMF? If you have could you let me know your opinion.
Thanks again,
Juan
Jeromy
Thanks Juan.
Indeed, this is just the tip of the iceberg. However, there are many things we can do – especially in our own home.
As for ogronite and other “protection” devices/products, I am not a big fan. You want to first reduce and eliminate your exposures as much as possible. Then, you can use something like orgonite or shungite. If you use these without doing the reduction/elimination first, you are likely doing harm to your health.
I write more about this here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
My best,
Jeromy
Barry Wallace
Since the EMF emitted by 240v wiring eclipses anything put out by a router, should I be looking into low EMF electrical wiring options as well?
Jeromy
Barry,
Thanks for asking.
In the picture above showing 1.8 V/m electric field reading, I am within a few feet of unshielded Romex wiring. So, the wrong router/modem that creates a lot of EMI can indeed eclipse that coming from your electrical wiring.
If someone is building a new home or doing a remodel, yes, EMT conduit with compression fittings is ideal. MC Cable will also work. For homes with standard Romex already installed, turning off breakers with a 3-phase contactor is the best way to go. This will greatly reduce the electric fields in that area of your home because even the neutral is cutoff from the grid.
Jeromy
MissCarole
I am from Quebec, Canada, I use the Bing translation:
Hello Jeromy,
I have a wired Thomson without wifi feature modem provided by my internet provider (videotron) and I still see too many EMF to stretch my time in front of my living room computer (Tower). I’m electrically sensitive. I would try the method you describe on your article with the modem without wifi, Arris/Motorola standard.
Is there something special to do in wired connections for this modem? Just changed my Thomson by the standard Motorola/Arris modem? Or do I need to do some modification in the wired connections with this modem?
I think the steps 2-3 and 4 described in your article seems to be for people who have a modem/router with built-in wifi. Am I wrong? If so, could you explain the method to connect wired to reduce EMF of my computer with your modem Arris/Motorola…?
Thank you!
Carole
Jeromy
Hi Carole,
All of these steps are for a wired modem/router. If you follow them as outlined above, they should great reduce the EMI you are exposed to.
If you would like to have an EMF consultant in Quebec come to your home, that could be beneficial. Just let me know and I’ll put you in touch with one near you.
Jeromy
Carole
Yes I would be interested in talking with a EMF consultant in Quebec.
All EMC measures have done to my house in the past and the protections were satisfactory.
The problem with me is I changed my internet connection with modem wireless for a modem without WiFi feature.
This modem is just wired, but my symptoms are a problem even with a wired internet facility and a TV cable.
I’d like a consultant to try a better facility for mitigating the problem of density extremely low frequency with my living room computer and my TV cable.
Internet and TV are the same distributor co.
Thank you
Carole
Dana
Hi, Jeromy!
It seems that the only Internet supplier in my area is SPECTRUM (formerly Bright House, so I have no choice for Comcast), and they provide their own modem. Can I do anything about that?…Can I still get my own modem and router if I subscribe to their service?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I looked up Spectrum/Charter and they are basically a network of regional ISPs with similar systems to Comcast. The modem I reference above should work well with them (provided the service is a cable service).
https://www.spectrum.com/spectrum-resi-home
You can double-check with them before you sign-up to make sure that modem is compatible.
The only services that I am aware of where that modem does NOT work are AT&T and Verizon.
Good luck!
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy, thank you for your answer!
May I ask if there is anything between the low-bandwidth Ethernet switch and the Netgear Router with the least EMI created in case I would like to have occasional access to wireless Internet?
Also how many long and short Ethernet cables, as well as Ethernet ground adapter do I need if I want to hook up to the Internet with two laptops, a desk top, and a TV (for streaming and youtube)?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I would normally just use the TP Link ethernet switch and then only add in the Netgear Router when you do need WiFi. That way you are usually having the lowest EMI system possible.
You would just need to switch the ethernet cables from your TP Link switch to the Netgear router. Inconvenient, but easy to do.
For each device (laptop, desktop, TV), you would need 2 ethernet cables and one Ethernet ground adapter. So, for four devices, you need 8 cables and 4 ground adapters per the setup above.
Good luck!
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for this article. I am from the Blue Mountains just outside of Sydney in Australia and the router provided by my internet provider is a Netgear one. And there is a lot of DE associated with it – tested using an AM radio. I don’t use the Wi-Fi at all as I am EHS and need to avoid that kind of exposure as much as I can.
My question is – do I need to get a new modem (such as the Arris/Motorola modem you refer to above) or can I just use the Ethernet switch and my old router. I’m a bit confused!!
As you can probably tell – I’m easily confused. If I have to get a new modem I will but compatibility issues worry me, and getting good advice out of telcos here is difficult.
Thank you again for this article,
Kate
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
Is your NetGear router also your modem? If so, then I would look into having a modem only device by another manufacturer (your internet service provider may be able to rent this to you). Your ISP should have a list of compatible modems that you can purchase (the Arriss modem above may be on that list).
If you already have a modem and the Netgear router, then I would simply get rid of the Netgear device and use the TP-Link Ethernet switch mentioned in point #2 above. You will be able to get one in Australia for just over $10.
Hope this helps. Let me know what you find in Australia for this setup.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Hi Jeromy,
I don’t have a separate modem – only the Netgear router which I’ve disabled for Wi-Fi use. I will check with my ISP for a list of compatible modems and get one. Thank you.
And then the other bits and pieces you recommend above.
Thank you for the advice – much appreciated.
Kate (Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Kate,
That’s interesting. Every home should have a modem. It’s the gateway between your home and the ISP.
The router is optional.
Perhaps double check that you don’t have a modem that was installed by your ISP somewhere on your property. If you do, then you would just need the TP-Link Ethernet switch.
Otherwise, most likely your Netgear is a modem/router combo.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Yes – I think you’re correct – it’s a modem/router combo and a Netgear one. So presumably still best to get a new router?
Kate
Jeromy
Kate – I would based on my tests of Netgear products. They seem to be very high emitters of EMI.
Jeromy
Deb
I only use a modem with ethernet straight to the laptop. If i don’t use more than one computer at a time, is the switch needed? I’m not technically inclined in this way to know. If it needs to be there for another reason, that’s fine. I’d just like to know. I don’t get what the switch does, except to add ports which I don’t need.
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
The TP-Link ethernet switch could reduce the EMI by slowing down the data transfer. For that reason, it won’t hurt and could certainly help.
You would just need to purchase the $10 switch, plus a short Ethernet cable to go from your modem to the switch.
Jeromy
Deb
So, skip the ground adapter completely and just use the switch? If the adapter helps lower EMI, why just the switch? Sorry if this is obvious to everyone else.
Jeromy
I would also use the Ethernet adapter. Sorry for the confusion.
Try to setup your system as close to what I have outlined above as possible. I have tested this and know it works.
Jeromy
Deb
The pictures shows the adapter going straight into the wall outlet. Is this required? Or, can I use a power strip?
Jeromy
Hi Deb,
As long as the power strip is properly grounded, it should be okay. You can test this with a ground tester (costs about $15 at LessEMF).
However, I tend to not use power strips because they can create high electric fields. This one is designed to reduce these fields:
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Shielded-Surge-Suppressor-Power-Strip–Custom-Modified_p_121.html?a_aid=esh
Jeromy
HD
Hi Jeromy,
I too am an electrical engineer, trying to understand the effects of EMF but for the preventative and precautionary case for my family.
I’m a bit puzzled by your explanation of gigabit ethernet however – I thought that the 4 pairs were still operating at the 125 MHz, but just in a different encoding mechanism.
From this website:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/how-gigabit-ethernet-works/#BMHU1PrKTTMXKIeO.99
“So it is a mistake to say that Gigabit Ethernet runs at 1.000 MHz. It doesn’t. It runs at 125 MHz just like Fast Ethernet (100BaseT), but it achieves a 1000 Mbps because it transmits two bits per time and uses the four pairs of the cable.”
Also, I’m using TP-Link Gigabit switches, and running shielded Cat5e (ubiquity) around our house. The router itself is a gigabit Netgear one, which is using the main routing and DHCP, but WiFi is only turned on on request and not very often nor for long periods. My questions is, does the conducted emissions pass from the Netgear router to the switches, and end up as radiated emissions?
Also, do you have recommendations for alternative SMPS units that are less prone to emit EMI?
Jeromy
HD,
Thanks for bringing this up. I wasn’t aware that is how they are getting 1 Gig speeds through some cables. I note that the article you link to is about 10 years old. I wonder if they are using the same method with newer cables/routers? For instance, I use these shielded Cat7 cables that can transmit up to 10 GBPS speeds:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCTFK9I/
I still think the issue here is the Gigabit router, which is going to create more higher frequency EMI than a slower router. Whatever EMI your router creates is going to conduct throughout your entire system and end up at your computer. This EMI can also radiate onto other nearby wires.
Putting a slower Ethernet switch between you and the Gigabit router likely won’t help. I tried this with my Netgear gigabit router and I could still feel the EMI within 20 minutes. With only the 10/100 mbps Ethernet switch and a slower modem, I have hardly any symptoms with this system at all.
Regarding SMPS alternatives, an EE colleague states that synchronous resonant designs are best, but you have to buy and test them to see if they are low emissions – especially at the frequencies you are concerned about or sensitized to. If you are handy, you could also build your own small toroidal linear supply for items like routers, switches or fiber optic converters. Send me an email and I’ll forward you information on this.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you for this very useful information. Regarding meters, my understanding has been that there are mainly 2 types of radiation: electro-magnetic (anything that plugs into an outlet, battery-powered things like clocks, as well as dirty electricity, ie improper wiring in the walls). The other type is radio emitted by any wireless transmission like Wi-Fi routers, phone towers, antennas, etc.
So do the Gigahertz meters you mention measure electro-magnetic frequencies? I know Cornet ED88T is one of the better meters for the average person for both electro-magnetic & radio frequencies but doesn’t measure dirty electricity. Do you find the Cornet meter comparable to the Gigahertz meters or are they different types of meters?
Thank you.
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I explain the four types of EMFs in this article:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-create-a-healthy-home/
The Gigahertz Solutions meters mentioned above measure the lower frequency magnetic and electric fields from wiring, appliances and electronics. They also measure some of what is considered “dirty electricity” or EMI.
They do not measure the high frequency RF radiation from wireless technology. This meter is good at that:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
The Cornet ED88T is an “okay” meter and does well for the price. However, it is not sensitive enough for the low frequency EMF (magnetic and electric fields) and misses some of RF frequencies (in independent tests).
The simple truth is that you get what you pay for in EMF meters. If you are sensitive to EMFs and want an accurate picture, get the best meters you can afford or split the costs by sharing the meters with people in your community.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you Jeromy.
Anna
Just to clarify, if I get one of the Gigahertz meters you recommend, I do not need the Stetzer meter? And, if I find significant EMI readings, do you recommend the Stetzer filters?
Jeromy
Anna,
The Stetzer meter measures EMI in the range from 10 KHz to 100 KHz. Both Gigahertz meters above also have an upper range of 100 KHz.
The Stetzer meter measures the noise directly on the hot wire of your wiring (differential mode). The Gigahertz meters are measuring the noise actually being radiated from your wiring (both common and differential mode).
If you do get an EMI / dirty electricity meter that you plug in, I would get the Alpha Labs mentioned here because it has a much greater frequency range – up to 10 MHz:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-measure-dirty-electricity/
Finally, I rarely recommend the filters (they are actually capacitors). They are not doing exactly what they claim and can cause more problems than they fix in certain cases. This is why many people feel worse with them.
What does work is finding the actual source of the EMI in your home and fixing or getting rid of it. If it is coming from the grid outside your home, then other filtering techniques can be utilized near the main circuit box or you can find the source and have the power company eliminate it (it is to their advantage to do this if the source is power line arcing).
I can help walk you through that process if you ever need to do this.
Jeromy
Anna
Thank you. Are you able to consult with people buying a new home? My sister is looking for a home in Florida and I’d like to help her, but I’m not sure how she can get someone to identify issues like towers, smart meters, dirty electricity etc. Do you do home consultations or recommend anyone in Florida?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Yes, my book is specifically on finding a low-EMF home and if you email me through my contact form, I’ll connect you and your sister to a consultant I trust in Florida.
For more on the book and consulting, read here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Thanks,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, if I buy your book now, will I need to purchase it again when you update the electronic version?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Yes, if you get the book now and then send me a note once the updated version is released, I’ll email you the new version.
My best,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, do you recommend anyone in NY who can come to our house and measure all the different types of radiation/electricity issues? Do you think a large cooling & heating system can cause issues for the person in bedroom next door?
Anna
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I emailed you with a referral in NY.
Also, yes, a heating/cooling system can create significant fields. Best to have it measured to see what is going on and see if any shielding is necessary.
My best,
Jeromy
HD
Hi there,
What about USB and HDMI devices? Both in particular have higher clocking rates compared to gigabit ethernet. USB3.0 is 5 Gbit/s and it only has one differential pair – so the clock is very high speed. However both HDMI and USB are shielded protocols and technically are terminated well to curb radiated emissions. Are you able to comment on this?
Jeromy
HD,
Have you measured the EMI created by these products with an older AM radio?
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-measure-dirty-electricity/
One concern I would have is that many of these USB 3.0/HDMI products have a copper wire within them (even if they say they are a fiber optic product). This metal will conduct and radiate any EMI emissions that are anywhere in your system.
This is why a pure fiber optic leg in your data system can be beneficial as it won’t allow any EMI to pass through (but the converter on your computer end will create EMI unless you have a clean power source).
Jeromy
HD
Couple of things … an AM radio doesn’t have the frequency response to detect the higher frequencies that these interfaces work at. Only a broad spectrum meter can do that, and no I haven’t yet invested in such a device.
Both USB and HDMI are also not optical interfaces – you might be thinking of Toslink devices which send out audio signalling. USB/HDMI interfaces are high speed serial interfaces that use differential pairs to send data bidirectionally.
Jeromy
HD,
I ran your question by an EE colleague and this was the response:
“Both USB 3.0 and HDMI are going to be similarly problematic. Analog VGA is preferred for lower emissions. In all cases, the cables will be radiating (shielded or no) the lower frequency (higher harmonics from power supply) EMI present on the computer ground. This you can pick up readily with the $15 “poor man’s near field sniffer”, the AM radio. What you do to reduce this will help with the higher frequencies, some.
Foil shields over any distance are pretty limited; the signal couples to the shield and the shield radiates as well as the wire. You just can’t have long cables with high data rates without putting them in some serious shielding, like EMT (with compression fittings) or IMC conduit. The only alternative is fiber, with the issue of emissions at the converters.”
HD
Much thanks for this Jeromy, and thanks to your colleague for the technical response. I see now that the higher frequency stuff is actually not what you are trying to measure, but the radiation via the external shielded of the common mode power supply noise that is more of a concern.
I note that many of the SMPS devices don’t even have an earth/ground pin, which means that many of the devices will not be “grounded” even if they are “shielded”. I also note that although my laptop SMPS has a ground pin, there is a 1M resistance to the Ground line from the -ve terminal. I wonder if much of the problems associated with cabling and radiation of 10-100 KHz frequency can be mitigated with a more solid ground – at the very least on the Ethernet network?
Jeromy
HD,
I can say from implementing the Ethernet ground adapter pictured above within my ethernet system, the lower frequency EMI (below 100 KHz) did indeed drop dramatically.
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Ethernet-grounding-adapter-kit_p_129.html?a_aid=esh
It does a good job with the SMPS EMI, but won’t do much for the higher frequencies.
Jeromy
Virginia Cottone
Hi Jeromy,
If you only have one computer is it still better to connect the modem to the switch/router as opposed to just connecting an ethernet cable to the ethernet grounding adapter and the other cable directly to the PC?
Thanks for all the great work you do!
Jeromy
Hi Virginia,
Thank you!
I use the TP-Link Ethernet switch above because it may slow down the data speeds even more than if you just use your modem. I also have several computers that are being served, so I need the switch.
I don’t think you will be greatly increasing your EMI if you go without the switch. As long as you use a low-EMI modem like the one above, along with the Ethernet ground adapter and shielded Cat7 cables, that should be a great setup.
Jeromy
Connie
Dear Jeromy,
Thank you so very much for keeping us informed in such an excellent manner & I appreciate all your hard work and dedication over the years. You certainly have a ton of wisdom (because of your own journey) and knowledge from all the amazing research!! You help so many, many people, I’m certain, with your compassion & empathy also. I’m speaking from my experience & perspective of you. I’m so glad I found you several years ago. I trust you, plus you cared enough to help guide me with my sister. You’re an amazing person, thank you!!
My health is not too good at the time and EMF is certainly one of the problems. I study your vital information on a regular basis and continue to learn more on why I feel as I do. I recently went to a nutritionist and she said I had a severe toxic situation and put me on a regime of drops for different areas of issues. She used the technology called Zyto and the readings were alarming. To mention just a few, said my cells were holding on to black mold, which affects the brain. I don’t really understand it. With your knowledge and expertise, what do you feel about this. I’m taking measurements to eliminate as much EMF as possible & opted out for smart meter. I asked my husband last night to please not bring his iPad up into our bedroom (bed), because my stress level is high & I have very loud ringing in my ears. I feel drained physically, trying to continue to get better. We live in the woods & have iPhones with Verizon as our carrier. We have no cables b/c our property is 18 acres, run off hotspot and cell tower; not sure of its location. I know this isn’t good. Can you give me any advice on what else to do? Thank you for all your time, patience & loyalty in this field. God Bless you. We need you!! Thank you so much for all your help!
Sincerely,
Connie
Jeromy
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing. I’m glad the site is of help to you!
Mold certainly makes EMF sensitivity worse. So, do what you can to decrease your mold exposure and to detox from this. I’ve used Grapefruit Seed Extract in the past for mold toxicity.
Also keep your wireless exposure to a minimum. Are you turning off that hotspot when not in use? Do you have a RF meter?
You will need one to understand what is going on in your home.
I also encourage you to read my book. It has the basics (and some advanced ideas) that will help you make your home much healthier:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Anna
Jeromy, when will your book be available in print?
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
I’m working on an updated version and adding some material that is taking me longer than expected. I would say approximately 2 months.
People who need it now are getting the ebook/PDF and printing it (80 pages).
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
My best,
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Dear Jeromy,
Is there an equivalent of the modem you recommend for ADSL? Are you able to recommend anything?
Thank you,
Kate Corcoran
(Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
I have never tested an ADSL modem. Hopefully you have a couple options through your local ISP and you can test with your own meters (AM radio and electric field meter) to see which one works best.
It often takes trying a few options to find what works for us individually.
Let us know what you find.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
Thanks Jeromy. I’ll get onto this.
I’ve got a body voltage meter to measure electric fields. I presume this is sufficient to get an idea with the electric fields are associated with modems?
Kate Corcoran (Blue Mountains, Australia)
Jeromy
Hi Kate,
The BV meter will pick up some of the EMI (from the SMPS of the plugged in modem/router), but it is only measuring E-fields in the frequency range up to about 400 Hz. The EMI frequencies I discuss in the article above are typically much higher (in the KHz and MHz ranges).
This is why I recommend the electric field meter above (ME3851A). A basic, older AM radio will also help you determine some of the higher frequencies on your system.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Kate Corcoran
That helps a lot, Jeromy, thank you.
I have an AM radio and there is clearly a lot of DE, but I would like to be able to measure electric fields in a more accurate way so I’ll get one of the meters you recommended.
Thank you so much for providing much needed guidance.
Kate Corcoran (Blue Mountains)
Dana
Hello, Jeromy!
Could you, please, tell me if the DOCSIS 3.0 router is a high EMI emitter or not?
This is what my carrier, Spectrum, is providing me with. Should I still buy the low-bandwidth Ethernet switch you were suggesting?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You would have to test it with the meters I show above. That is the only way to know.
If at all possible, I would go with the exact setup I have above. It’s been tested. It should also work with your ISP (Charter/Spectrum).
My best,
Jeromy
Dana
Dear Jeromy,
After I had done my homework and had purchased all the items needed for a low EMF connection, I had today someone from Spectrum over to install the Internet in my new condo and and to my disappointment the guy said that the Arris Surfboard SB6121 model I had purchased was incompatible with Spectrum (although I made sure to ask prior to his arriving about this issue and I thought I was all set…); I was now told that the only router with modem incorporated, which they are able to use is the ARRIS 1682 or 1672. He got me an Arris 1682, which he has hooked up since I had no choice (Spectrum is the only Internet provider in my area after all).
What do you suggest me to do in this situation? I still have the Arris Surfboard unopened in the box (which I will have to return to Amazon), along with the TP-link, and the Ethernet cables; can I still use any of these?
What would be my safest set-up under the current conditions, do you have any idea?
I would consider still using cables (the device has four outlets for cables), and I would turn it off at night; is there anything else I could use, like a shield or additional protection?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
The Arris 1682 is a wireless router/modem combo. It’s what Comcast Xfinity uses as well. You do not want this router/modem operating in your home. People have been complaining about these powerful routers, as you can read here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
I would contact Spectrum and demand a wired only modem or a list of modems that you can purchase yourself.
I assume you have an RF meter? This will help you see how much these devices are emitting. This one is good for the price:
http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88T-esh.html
Keep me posted.
Jeromy
Dana
Thank you, Jeromy.
I have called Spectrum and it seems that the modem I got is compatible but with a download speed up to 60 Mbps, which they said it might be too little power to function well. (by the way, to your knowledge can I download and watch movies with up to 60 Mbps?)
Therefore, I have installed the modem and have hooked it to the TP-link, and then used an Ethernet cable to connect it to my computer, but it does not receive signal that way.
What I still don’t understand is what should I use as a router now since I have disconnected the router/modem combo Spectrum has provided me with? Is the TP-link supposed to work as a router or am I missing something? Do I need to buy a different router, as well?
I am sorry I am so ignorant about these things; it is always easy to just go with what they give me free, but I am hoping you can help me figure this out and get a different low EMF connection after all…
Thank you, I appreciate all your help!
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You will do fine with streaming movies at 20 mbps.
The Arris modem I recommend is able to provide up to 174 mbps. So, it’s a matter of what you are paying Spectrum for (60 mpbs is adequate).
You don’t have a router in this setup. You just have a wired modem (Arris) and then an ethernet switch (TP-Link) that allows you to run Ethernet cables to multiple (up to 4) devices.
If things are not working, try running the cable directly from the Arris modem to your computer. Does it work then? If not, then it is a problem with Spectrum and how they have connected to your modem.
Usually unplugging your modem will reset it and things tend to work after this.
If you want to discuss further, let’s have a phone/Skype call. You can see this option here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Jeromy
Emily
Jeromy, just wondering what you think about something I just heard someone say… that radio frequencies (RF) ground in metal objects and that includes amalgam fillings. Is this true? Does it apply to other types of radiation?
Thank you,
Emily
Jeromy
Hi Emily,
Great question. Indeed, metal can act as an antenna for RF and EMI (electromagnetic interference) in your environment. The frequencies will then conduct along the metal and possibly radiate outward.
This partly why I got rid of my amalgam fillings five year ago (they also add mercury to your system).
In your home, you just want to have really low amounts of RF and EMI. That way you don’t have to worry about the wiring and other metal in your home acting as an antenna.
Hope this helps.
Jeromy
Debra Greene, PhD
Here is a much simpler solution! Put Tesla Purple Plates near your computer to neutralize EMI. I use a Gigahertz 3830B meter to measure EMI and then position one or two credit card sized Tesla Purple Plates near the “hot spots” and voila! EMI gone! Jeromy I hope you will read this post and try this elegant solution yourself and please post your results. I got the Tesla Purple Plates from Philip Stul at http://www.TeslaPlates.com. They cost about $38 each.
Jeromy
Hi Debra,
I would appreciate it if you make a short video showing your claims above, post it on YouTube and then share it here as a comment.
There is no known mechanism in engineering for a special credit card shaped device to magically eliminate the electromagnetic interference being transmitted on your Ethernet cables to your computer. So, either there is user-error going on here with the measurements, or you have something to show us all.
Your video will help clarify.
Thanks,
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy,
Have you or anyone tested the Arris SB6141? The SB6121 is very quiet, but may be too slow for our needs.
Also, do you or anyone have any feedback on the Toshiba Satellite C55-B5300 16-Inch Laptop Intel Celeron N2840 Processor? This was the only new Toshiba Satellite I could find online that looks similar to the ones you recommended.
On Toshiba’s website there is a new model Toshiba Satellite with a Celeron Processor – Toshiba Tecra C40-D1400ED Laptop .http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/tecra/C40/C40-D1400ED?cm_mmc=search-_-result-_-celeron-_-%2Fcomputers%2Flaptops%2Ftecra%2FC40%2FC40-D1400ED
This has an Intel® Celeron® Processor 3865U rather than the Celeron N2840 Processor. Do you have any information on this processor? I was thinking if your experience with newer Toshiba’s holds true, then maybe this could be the one to consider.
Any feedback from you or anyone else would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Renee
TSkinner
We will be going wired soon (well as soon as I call to set up)…we will be using Comcast. I see your recommended devices above (thank you!)…one quick question…is important that the modem or router be placed at a specific distance away from the computer. Or does it matter since it’ll be wired?
Jeromy
It’s good to not have it right next to you (within 5 feet or so) as there is some EMI radiating from it.
It’s also good not to have it more than 50 feet from you. There can be significant EMI issues when you use Ethernet cables longer than 50 feet that need to be mitigated.
Thanks for asking.
Jeromy
Renee
Does the 50 feet Ethernet cable distance refer to the cumulative total distance originating from the Arris modem via the TP Link switch to the computer or just from the TP Link switch to the computer?
Jeromy
Renee,
It’s from the TP-Link Ethernet switch to your computer. You can break up the distance with the ground adapter seen above as well.
When you use longer Ethernet cords (say 100 feet), there is potential for more EMI at your computer.
Jeromy
Renee
Jeromy, Thanks for clarifying this! Renee
Tanya S
I just want to say this post helped us tremendously with connecting our wired internet! Thank you so much! I do not have a EMF meter yet however we officially have wired internet which is a huge step!!! I still need to work on the grounding piece. This is all new to me and I’m learning the new computer lingo. Ha! I did read on the site of the grounding piece for the Ethernet Adapter and it stated this: “Use this adapter kit to ground a laptop or other portable device. It can also be used to ground long Ethernet runs from one room to another or through walls. Desktop computers with grounded plugs do NOT need this adapter. But other non-grounded devices like laptops and printers should use this adapter to reduce electric field readings near the body.” My computer has 3 prongs…does that mean it’s grounded? It’s not a laptop…so…I don’t want to use it if it specifies not to or am I missing something?
Jeromy
Hi Tanya,
You should be good to go with this setup. Just note that you want your desktop computer as far from your body as possible. Don’t have it sitting right next to you.
You can add in the Ethernet ground adapter mentioned above. That will reduce any EMI coming from your router/modem.
Jeromy
Martin
Thank you Jeromy. I think I can notice an improvement unplugging the ethernet cable and instead using my phone’s cellular data via USB. I have also grounded my desktop PC and put it in another room behind two walls as I feel a bit sick being in the same room with it while it runs. Finally, I replaced my old fluorescent back-lit monitor with a LED one since all fluorescents seriously wear me out (UV blocking glasses help though).
Using my PC feels much more normal now, though I wonder why throughout my teens I was so addicted to sitting in front of it playing video games despite feeling so exhausted.
This is a weird problem we have…
Martin
Jeromy
Martin,
Glad you are making some changes and that they are helping. Here are some additional suggestions:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
More and more people are becoming affected, so it won’t be such a weird issue forever.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Alan
I haven’t read all of the posts here but here are some suggestions:
I have an iMac 27″ with a Retina screen which supposedly has a small EMF footprint, it certainly uses very little power 50 to 65 watts normally and 35 watts on screen saver)… but it is powered through a H10 Power conditioner by APC and there is very little dirty electricity on that circuit as measured by my Graham Stetzer meter. I plug the computer/modem/router/telephone/2magicJacks/printer/flat screen (42″ non-smart) TV/BluRay player/LED lamp all into it to clean it up and prevent surges. My last iMac made it to 9.5 yars till I replaced it because it was 2 slow, not because it died. Our house also has a surge suppressor at the panel to keep the power cleaner.
I put a cap over the Smart Meter made from metal window screen and grounded that which cuts out 75% of the signal.
Dana
Hi, Jeromy and Renee!
I would like to tell you that the Arris Surfboard SB6121 you have suggested me to get is actually working with Spectrum; you just have to call them up and give them the serial number and they will switch it over for you.
You can see over here:
https://www.timewarnercable.com/en/support/internet/topics/lease-or-buy-modem.html
Best,
Dana
Jeromy
Thank you Dana! Great to know.
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Dana,
I was only able to get Spectrum connected directly from the Arris modem to the TP Link switch for only one computer at a time. I am trying to connect 3 computers to it via the TP Link switch at the same time. and was told I needed a router. I called Spectrum & Arris with the serial number and after a few hours on the phone they couldn’t do it.
Are you using the TP Link switch directly from the Arris modem? If so, are you connected to only one device? It seems to work fine for one. Are you able to connect to more than one device at a time?
I’m glad to hear yours is working.
Renee
Dana
Jeromy,
I have a question about smart meters: I have just recently purchased an end unit condo, about which I did not realize at the time I was taking the decision of buying it that all the smart meters from my neighbors residing in the building were attached to the exterior wall of my kitchen…(there are a total of four). What would you suggest me doing for shielding the interior from them as on the inside wall I have the kitchen cabinets and a few rows of tiles between the upper and lover cabinets? I have looked on the lessemf.com website and I see that there is a ‘Smart Meter Shield Kit’ (involving both an RF reflector and an absorber material) available but that implies taking everything off the walls so lots of work I would prefer not to undertake since everything is new over there?
Therefore, I have thought about using a fabric (particularly the ‘High Performance Mesh’ fabric), which I would just hang in front of the cabinet area and cover part of the wall as well as the window on that same wall; do you think that such set-up would be efficient against smart meters radiation? (by the way, does the fabric require any kind of grounding in order to do the job or just hanging it would be sufficient?)
The ‘High Performance Mesh’ fabric seems to have the maximum shielding performance in a mesh fabric (of 50dB from 30 MHz to 3 GHz) and it is see-through.
I also understand that setting up exterior smart meter shields on the meters on my wall would not help my situation since I need to protect the inside part of the wall; am I right?
However, here is another issue: I actually do have five other smart meters pointing at my kitchen from the building adjacent from my apartment but I figure it is far enough as to not emit a lot of microwave signals in to my home? (we are talking about 20 feet distance from the other building to my outside wall). Do you think I am safe from those or is there anything I would need do about that, too?
This smart meter situation gives me a lot of trouble lately since I do not know what effect it could have on me in time but I would like to take all the possible measures in order not to find out…
Thank you so much for all the advice you share on your website, Jeromy!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
Thanks for your question.
The first thing I would do is measure what the smart meter exposures actually are. Here are two RF meters that would do the job. Use the code EMFA-10 for a 10% discount if you buy one:
http://slt.co/Products/RFMeters/RFMeter-HF35C.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Then I would determine the most effective shielding that will work for your aesthetics. See item #6 here for the best shielding solution in my opinion:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Shielding works best when grounded, but is not necessary.
Finally, it’s best to be about 50 feet from operating smart meters. Some people say 100 feet. It depends on the smart meter (some radiate with less power).
If you get some opt-outs from neighbors and use the smart meter guards, that will help in this situation. Also, if you are sleeping at a good distance away, that is also important. You want a low-EMF situation where you sleep.
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Karen Blackwell
Hi there great blog,
You refer to using both a modem and a router – is there a difference between the two?
Here in Australia, we just have a modem with ethernet jack’s at the back into which I connect my desktop and kid’s laptops?
Can you please tell me the difference between the two?
Jeromy
Hi Karen,
Thanks for your question. Above in the comments is a thread with the same question from Kate Corcoran from Australia. Look through our messages there as that should help.
If not, let me know.
Use “Ctrl F” to search Kate on this page.
My best,
Jeromy
AJ
Jeromy, do you have an opinion about the EMF earthing mat made by earthing.com?
https://www.earthing.com/universal-mat-with-cover-kit.html/
Product description says the mat is carbon infused leatherette adhered to a PVC and latex free foam backing. It has a cord that plugs onto the mat on one end and the earthing plug (3rd round hole) on the other end.
AJ
AJ
Sorry, I meant the ground plug in the outlet (3rd round hole only).
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I don’t typically recommend such products. Here is why:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/is-grounding-good-for-you/
Jeromy
Dana
Hi, Jeromy!
I have set up my Internet using the Ethernet cables following your entire set-up suggestion and I am running into one problem: I can not use more than one computer at a time although I am using the 5 port TP-link connected to the Arris modem (every time I connect a second computer it does not work unless I disconnect the first one and I am restarting the router).
What do you think the problem could be?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
Sorry about that. It works fine like this for me and others. My guess is that your ISP is not providing the ability to split the IP addresses.
I would talk to them to see if they have had this problem before with equipment that is not their own. I suspect they simply won’t know, but a good tech from the company could figure this out or give you a straight answer.
A workaround would be to get your ISP’s non-WiFi modem (you would have to rent it from them) that integrates with their system. Then using the 5 port TP-Link should work fine for separate computers. If it doesn’t, then it is definitely a problem with their system/network.
Another idea would be to try a different model Arris modem. Often times, it takes some trial-and-error to get things to work properly as every ISP, home network and equipment setup is different.
Let me know how this goes.
Jeromy
Renee
Hi Jeromy & Dana,
I finally got a high level tech person @ Spectrum. He spent a lot of time going through the setup. He researched all our devices/equipment and called us back several times throughout the day.
The only thing he could come up with is that the signal Comcast provides may be different from the one Spectrum provides possibly allowing the IP address to split. But since he doesn’t have access to Comcast’s signal he couldn’t confirm this for certain. In order for the setup to work with Spectrum a router must be used.
So I’m curious if the people who have been successful with this setup are Comcast users only or are there any Spectrum users?
The issue with using Spectrum’s equipment, even Wi-fi disabled, is there is a router built in to the modem which is much noisier than your setup.
I am currently trying a TRENDnet TW100-S41CA router. This is a no wi-fi 10/100 router. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006I5XC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I’ve added it to the Arris modem and the TP-Link to allow for multiple computer use. It measures low with an AM radio and an electric meter but I’m not sure yet how I feel while using it.
Jeromy, do you have any comments about this router?
Thanks,
Renee
Jeromy
Hi Renee,
This looks like a good option. The router is a 10/100 mbps, which is slow enough to not have to much additional EMI. You may not even need the TP-Link Ethernet adapter. Just test with both to see what the electric fields are at your computer.
The ISP I tested the above setup on is called Vast. It’s a regional Midwestern ISP, not Comcast. I do believe others have gotten this setup to work with Comcast as well. Good to know it doesn’t work well with Spectrum.
It looks like you have a great solution figured out.
Jeromy
AJ
Hello Jeromy,
What is your opinion on this product?
http://www.stetzerizer-us.com/Complete-Remote-Cutoff-Kit-for-1-to-4-Circuits_p_105.html?a_aid=esh
Jeromy
Hi AJ,
I prefer this product:
http://slt.co/Products/DemandSwitches/RemoteCutOffSwitch.aspx
A contactor is better than a switch, as it disconnects both the hot wire and the neutral for each circuit. This will reduce the EMI coming into a bedroom even more. The one above through Stetzerizer only cuts the hot wire (like turning off a circuit breaker switch).
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout to get a 10% discount on your purchase.
Your electrician will be able to install the contactor, which can be used for 4 different circuits.
My best,
Jeromy
Julie
Hi. Thanks for much for publishing this article. I am electrically sensitive, we got rid of our smart meter last year. I had our phone company (who provides our internet) out this morning to move our router to the dining room where we can hardwire all of the laptops, and easily turn off the WiFi.
I do sometimes use a desktop upstairs, so I purchased a powerline adapter. My husband plugged it in and instantly I could feel my entire body ‘buzzing’. Do you know anything about this, could it be the powerline adapter?
I’m going to look at your set up here and get started make sure our set up is low EMF.
Jeromy
Hi Julie,
Yes, the PLC (powerline communication) technology of the powerline adapter creates a high amount of EMI / “Dirty Electricity” on your home wiring. It will be on many of the circuits in the home and radiates out from the wiring. This is likely the primary reason you started reacting shortly after you started using it.
I would only have wired Ethernet in your home. That’s just the only way to go for electrically sensitive people. You can drill holes through the floors to run the Ethernet cables. It’s well worth the hassle!
Or, only do your computer work downstairs within an Ethernet cable length of the modem/router.
Look at item #4 here for shielded Cat7 cables. Some are even 50′ – 100′ to get upstairs.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/the-basics/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Dana Tolan
Hi, Renee!
Are you already using the TRENDnet TW100-S41CA router? Does it work with the Arris modem and the TP-link? I am thinking of getting it, as well; thank you for sharing!
Jeromy, do you know of any router, which produces low EMI and also has the WiFi option if needed?
Thank you!
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
I do not as I have not tested many WiFi enabled routers.
What I would suggest is to have a low-EMI completely wired setup as outlined in the article. Then, also have a WiFi enabled router (like a basic Netgear router) that you could put into your network in those rare occasions that you absolutely need WiFi.
That seems like the most practical solution and would give you a low-EMI setup 99% of the time.
Jeromy
Dana
Jeromy, if I would purchase the Netgear router along with the non-Wi-Fi router TRENDnet TW100-S41CA, which Renee has suggested would I be able to switch from one to the other myself without calling Spectrum every time I would need to do that?
I will probably do that then. Thank you!
Dana
Dana
Thanks, Jeromy!
In order to switch from one router to the other would I need to call my ISP every time or could I just do it myself, do you know?
Thank you for your answer,
Dana
Jeromy
Hi Dana,
You can typically switch out the routers/Ethernet switches with no problems. The modem can typically re-establish a connection with the new device.
If you run into problems with this, you can unplug the modem. When it powers back up, it will automatically sync with the new router in your network. This is the process I have used with multiple ISPs and it always works.
My best,
Jeromy
Alicia
Thank you so much, Jeromy, for all the information you’ve shared throughout your site! It’s truly been one of the MOST helpful resources we’ve found since beginning remediation six months ago.
We’ve never had any fancy tech, just plain, free antenna tv, and AT&T dsl internet (now hardwired only with shielded ethernet) and landline phone. With AT&T our bills have gone way up and service quality way down the last several years. To have a landline costs much more than $20 now! In researching alternatives (Mediacom cable), I came to your article here, and have a question regarding cable phone. In an answer earlier to Stephanie, you say a landline is preferable to cable phone. Is this because it’s difficult / impossible to find a safe cable + phone modem, or is there something inherently bad about cable phone service?
Any insight is greatly appreciated! This is such a steep learning curve.
Jeromy
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for writing. Glad the site has been helpful to you!
The reason that the traditional copper landline is better than a landline through your cable provider is that there will be less EMI coming to your landline phone.
Using VoIP (voice through your internet service) has usually made landline phones more troublesome for electrically sensitive people. I have experienced this multiple times.
So, it’s worth the $20/month to continue to have the regular landline service (if it is still available in your community).
I also encourage you to look into this analog landline setup that I have. It really makes a difference in diminishing headaches when talking on the phone:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/analog-phone-system/
My best,
Jeromy
Marie
Jeromy,
Thank you SO much for all this information. I am currently staying at a home with an Xfinity router. And no landline. (A definition of Hell.) In order to get through the next 3 weeks I found a used Arris Surfboard Modem you recommend and plugged in a router that I already have that looks very similar to what you recommend. It is also 10/100 mbps. After hours and hours (and hours) of tech support with Magic Jack and Trendnet, the router manufacturer, it was determined that the reason the Magic Jack is not working is because my router is too basic and doesn’t have port forwarding. And Magic Jack only works on ports 5060 and 5070.
Do you know if the TP-Link would probably not have port forwarding as well?
Until I find another router I’m without any phone service but Skype, which is pretty hard for me to use. Do you know if any other 10/100 mbps routers might actually have port forwarding?
Btw, I just saw your comment about VOIP and I completely agree–it’s quite problematic. But in a pinch with no copper landline it’s better than Skype. At least I think.
Thank you, again for your incredibly helpful education and giving people solutions. The info on Xfinity routers is priceless, and everyone needs to know.
Many thanks,
Marie
Jeromy
Hi Marie,
Glad this has all been beneficial.
Are you in the Bay Area? I know there Comcast will give you a new wired modem that is phone-enabled. I had one in San Francisco – just walked into the Comcast store and they asked no questions when I said what I wanted. Then you just plug your phone line into it and you are set.
I am leery of using Magic Jack. It is wireless only, correct? And, I know it is a powerful microwave source. Do you have an RF meter to test? This one is great for the price (you get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10):
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
As for a newer router that will work with Magic Jack/ Trendnet, I would get the newest Netgear router that has an On/Off button for the WiFi. That is likely your simplest solution. I have not tested the newest models myself.
Again, make sure you are testing things with your RF meter to make sure all antennas are off.
I also want to add that I actually do better on Skype on a low-EMF computer/internet setup (as discussed above) than I do on a landline that has a lot of EMI on it. If you do use a landline setup, then try this setup. It works great!
https://www.emfanalysis.com/analog-phone-system/
Keep me posted,
Jeromy
Alicia
Hi Jeromy,
With your ME 3851A, is there typically a lot of EMI from unhealthy pc setups, etc., when the filter function is set to 2kHz – 100kHz?
We have the Gigahertz Solutions ME 3030B, which has a small range of 16Hz to 2kHz. While it’s done a great job helping us find our home’s problem circuits, I’m not sure how much we may be missing at the higher frequencies.
Many thanks!
Jeromy
Hi Alicia,
Great question.
Most of the EMI coming to your computer via the Ethernet cable is from the SMPS (switch mode power supply) of your modem/router/ethernet switch. This is going to be lower frequency (multiples of the 50/60 Hz power supply).
For this, your meter is just fine to use and detect this EMI. The ethernet ground adapter mentioned above in the article also does a good job of eliminating this.
I rarely get high readings using the 2 KHz – 100 KHz setting. For the higher frequency EMI, you really need to be measuring in the 1 to 10 MHz range. However, even the most common professional meter available will only measure EMI up to 1 MHz.
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/NFA1000.aspx
For the EMI from 500 KHz to 2 MHz, you can use an old AM radio.
So, your meter is sufficient for now. Just get those E-Field readings below 5 V/m at your computer (and where you sleep).
Jeromy
Ann McPherson
Hi Jeromy,
I bought the SB6121 and tp 5-port Ethernet switch you recommend to try with Comcast. The system works with one laptop, but it won’t work with two laptops. I can’t access the internet on both laptops at the same time. I have to disconnect one and reboot the modem to get internet on the other laptop.
1. Other people seem to have this problem too, yet it works for you with Comcast. Why is that? What can I do? Do I have to get a router with a manual wifi switch, or is there another way around this?
2. Do I need the Ethernet grounding system if I always use my laptops with the power cords? Is that sufficient?
3. My laptop doesn’t have an Ethernet port so I bought an Ethernet adapter with a 3-port usb hub. Do I need to ground that too?
4. The other option is to hardwire into Sonic (with wireless disabled). Thoughts? It feels the same to me. How can I test whether that is better/worse than the SB6121?
Thanks for your help!
Ann
Jeromy
Hi Ann,
I would add this wired router into your setup. You can do this between your modem and the Ethernet switch, or you can use this in place of your Ethernet switch.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Broadband-Recognizing-Protection-TW100-S4W1CA/dp/B00006I5XC/
This should solve your problem with the Ethernet switch not working with Comcast.
Also, I always use my computers on battery power. You greatly increase the electric fields you are exposed to when a laptop you are using is plugged in. Read this:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
The Ethernet-to-USB hub should be fine, as long as it doesn’t need to be plugged-in.
Let us know how this works for you.
Jeromy
Jeromy
Angie
Hi, I switched from Verizon to Comcast. Bought everything you suggested. But I can only get one laptop to work on the switch at a time. Comcast said they don’t give multiple up addresses and that I need a router for this to work.
Please give me your recommendation for what to do next.
Jeromy
Hi Angie,
It appears that some ISPs don’t allow for just an Ethernet switch to be used. I would add this wired router into your setup. You can do this between your modem and the Ethernet switch, or you can use this in place of your Ethernet switch.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Broadband-Recognizing-Protection-TW100-S4W1CA/dp/B00006I5XC/
Let me know that this worked for you.
Jeromy
Melissa
Hi Jeromy,
I currently have WiFi internet through my landline provider, Windstream. They provided the router, cables, setup, everything. Could I just call and have them switch me back to a wired system, or would I still need to get the specific router, cables, etc. mentioned in your article?
Thanks!
Melissa
Jeromy
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for writing.
I would work with them to either turn off any WiFi in their new modem or give you an older one that only uses Ethernet. In doing this, however, you need to be able to confirm that there is now WiFi. I like this RF meter to test – we all should have one.
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout for a 10% discount.
As for using the setup above, that would help with the EMI aspect (electric fields being transmitting from your modem along your Ethernet cables to your computer). However, that is kind of “next level” EMF remediation. First make sure you are not being exposed to WiFi. Then, if you are still EMF sensitive at your computer, follow the protocol above.
Keep me posted.
All my best,
Jeromy
Karen Blackwell
Hi there. Can these adaptors be used here in Australia. We have 240v and different plugs. Thanks.
Jeromy
Hi Karen,
They can be used in Australia, but the grounding plug won’t work in your outlets. What you can do instead is run and extension wire out to a copper ground wire outside. This will reduce the EMI coming to your computer.
Alternatively, you can use these items to ground the EMI on your Ethernet cables:
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/computer.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#704
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#291-ext
http://www.aitsafe.com/go.htm?go=www.lessemf.com/ground.html&afid=50042&tm=90&im=1#295
You can use these to also ground your Cat-7 Ethernet to a copper wire outside (which you can get a local hardware store for $2).
Hope this helps!
Jeromy
Paul
Hi Jeromy,
Thank you for the great article.
The crucial thing is to have all measurements well done. Let me then ask you about meters. Gigahertz ME 3851A is not cheap but seems to be the proper one. If I use Cornet ED88T instead, will I catch all the bandwith?
Other question is about the oscilloscope. It can be not so good for the laptop running on battery power, but is still good for measure EMI if we assume that wiring system in our walls and outside of them are the fundamental carrier. Although PicoScope 2200 Series Oscilloscope is not very expensive at first look, finally it is not cheap. We need to buy the active probe (decreasing input voltage to the safe level for this computer device) which costs 2-3 times of the price of the oscilloscope. Am I right or is any way to avoid buying the probe?
The most advantage of using an oscilloscope is wide range of the measurement, so I consider to use it as the main EMF meter.
Paul
Jeromy
Paul,
Sorry for the delay. Your comment was in the spam folder.
First, I recently uploaded this video which shows how I test and reduce the EMI for my computer setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
Second, the Cornet ED88T is not sensitive enough for electric fields in my opinion. It is only sensitive to 10 V/m, whereas 1 V/m is ideal. It does have a range of 50 Hz to 50 KHz, which will help you see if you have lower frequency EMI from the power supply of your router/modem. If there is a problem, it will detect it (typically giving you a reading over 100 V/m.
If you are price sensitive, the Gigahertz Solutions ME3830B is a decent meter for around $200 (A notch down from the ME3851A). You get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10 at checkout:
http://slt.co/Products/EMFMeters/ME3830B.aspx
Finally, I’ll connect you to a colleague of mine who is an expert with the Pico series. He can help you with your questions on this. I use an AM radio (as seen in the video above for testing the higher frequency EMI).
Jeromy
Jan
Hi Jeromy,
Love your site and blog posts. Very informative and comprehensive information. 🙂
We just started out over here in Australia and try to inform everyone about the dangers of EMFs and how to handle them.
Michael
Hi, I found a way of lowering the ethernet bandwidth of my CAT7 cable.
In the driver settings for your network adapter on windows 10 (Right click adapter; properties; configure; advanced tab; “Speed and duplex”). It’s 1 gbps normally, I set it to 100mbps full duplex. Have you tried this and/or tested? Was wondering if its enough to reduce the EMF or EMI by reducing the bandwidth with software. But I have no testing meters. And I wonder if its necessary given that CAT7 is shielded.
In the details tab of the adapter, it registers as 100mbps. Line fully disconnected and reconnected as I applied the change. I’d set it to 10mbps but have 25mbps internet.
Thanks for reading,
Michael
Jeromy
Hey Michael,
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
My question would be whether the router/modem you are using is actually able to modify this. Perhaps newer, gigabit speed models can.
Also, this would not help with the SMPS from the router/modem power supply that would transmit along your ethernet (even shielded cable).
CAT7 cables do reduce the radiated EMI along the cable, but not at the cable ends. There will still be a high presence of EMI there (per my measurements).
Here is a video I recently made showing how this works and what I do to reduce EMI:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
Thanks for writing.
Jeromy
Anna
Hello Jeromy.. I am hoping you can give me some advice on how to improvise an RF defense while temporarily staying with a relative in NYC. There are 15+ wifi networks in my living environment and there are probably antennas on the roofs of nearby buildings. I cannot pay 1k on fabric to make a Faraday cage but have seen people on YouTube improvise using aluminum insect screens or aluminum foil. Do you have any suggestions on a material that I can get easily?
Thank you
Jeromy
Hi Anna,
Shielding is really difficult / ineffective unless you know what the exposures actually are and where they are coming from.
Having a basic RF meter is the best place to start. That way you can find the places that already have relatively love RF exposures (and avoid high exposure areas). You will be surprised that sometimes buildings/spaces in a city have low exposures.
I would get this one. You get a 10% discount with the code EMFA-10:
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
Once you know the exposures, thick tinfoil is your best inexpensive shielding alternative. I list other fabrics/material here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
I also get a headache when I’m watching television. Of course, the remote control is not being used and the set up is wired. Still I get a headache.
Is this also EMI?
Jeromy
Very doubtful as you are not right next to the TV.
John
Jeromy – love the article and information!!
In respect to a line EMI meter by Alpha Labs I am considering buying.
Any thoughts to the Greenwave EMI meter – looks very similar. I know this article is about safe wired network which is on my list of upgrades but my next project is identifying other dirty electricity in my house. It seems the Greenwave and Stelzers filters are options – any thoughts there appreciated as well. Hence if you recommend one over the other would seem to make sense to buy their meter?
Please correct my thinking if I am wrong.
Thanks again!
John
Jeromy
Hi John,
Thanks for asking.
The EMI meters are the same – both made by Alpha Labs. I don’t tend to recommend the Stetzer meter. You can get the Alpha Labs meter here for the least expensive price with a 10% discount (use the code EMFA-10):
http://slt.co/Products/PowerLineMeters/LineEMIMeter.aspx
I don’t recommend the filters (Greenwave or Stetzer). There are technical reasons for this, which I summarize in my book:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/healthy-home/
The biggest of which is that they are basically capacitors. Their function is to move the EMI from differential mode (hot wire) to common mode (neutral/ground). So, the EMI is still present on the wiring, but it is not being measured by their meters.
An even better test for EMI is to use an AM radio at the breaker panel. You can identify and reduce EMI sources there. If you ever want to learn how to do this, book a phone/Skype consult with me here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
Hope this helps,
Jeromy
Yash Rungta
Hi Jeromy,
What is your view on EMF from television? I feel the same effect when a television is playing a video through a cable when compared to a video played by a computer on wired internet.
Jeromy
Yash,
Sometimes the data line (cable/internet) coming into a home has a lot of EMI on it. This is particularly true with high-bandwidth systems. Filtering the line coming into the home is the best solution. You may also want to find ways to ground the frequencies, like I do here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULV0jKXcnJo
As for the TV and EMI, I assume you are sitting 10-15 feet from the TV. That is generally a ways away to be reacting to the TV and any EMI. It makes more sense when you are at a laptop that is directly connected to the EMI through an Ethernet cable.
One partial solution, in addition to what I write above, is to have the lowest bandwidth package possible through your cable/internet provider.
Jeromy
Dragonfly
Hi,
I am putting in place ethernet wiring around the house, in order to avoid wifi due its radiation emission. As far as I have understood, the external internet cable is plugged into the modem, which is then plugged into the router (some devices are a combi modem/router), which is then plugged into the switch, then this is wired to a patch panel, and from there wires are dispersed around the house to various fixed locations being available through wall sockets. I am planning to run the wires through the skirting and (where there are doors I need to pass) the architrave around doors. I might be painting the wall, skirting etc around the wires using emr shielding paint and earthing. Since all these wires are running through the skirting, I need the wires to not take up too much space so I can fit them all in. Hence why I am thinking of flat wires. But are these good enough in terms of blocking interference compared to the rounded ones? Also, running so many ethernet cables parallel to one another, would that cause any serious interference?
Now getting to my main question, can I use the ethernet ground adaptor between the router and the switch only, rather than have one for every wire that leaves the switch as is suggested above? Will that have the same grounding effect?
Thank you.
Jeromy
The flat, sheilded CAT7 cables seen in item #4 here should work perfect. They do a great job for me and are well-shielded:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/the-basics/
Also, you want the Ethernet ground adapter between the switch and your computer/laptops. The reason is that the switch will generate SMPS EMI from the power source. The Ethernet ground adapter will reduce most of this EMI, provided it is between the switch and your device.
Jeromy
Dragonfly
Thank you, I really appreciate you replying. And thank you for the article!
Lili
Hi!
Is Cat 7 better than shielded Cat 5?
Thank you!
Jeromy
Hi Lili,
I always use the thin, shielded Cat-7 cables with metal ends.
Provided the shielded Cat-5 cables have metal ends and you measure low electric fields at your computer (below 2 V/m), they should work well.
Jeromy
Lili
I asked quotes from local electrician to wire Ethernet (To avoid WiFi) with CAT7 and he wrote: “the standard CAT5E is a huge step up from WiFi signals. Further the shielded cable will offer almost no EMF. The 5-6-7 is purely distance ratings for loss of signal. Most supply houses don’t carry CAT7. Our CAT5E has better ratings for distance then any home depot or lowes cat6 so the CAT5E is OK for any residential use.” Would you agree?
Jeromy
You should be just fine with a shielded CAT5 cable. However, once you start getting over 50 feet in length, you can have additional EMI on the cable. Usually running long lengths of cable is not the best solution, unless it is your only solution (e.g. your office is across the home from your modem).
I would encourage you to have a simple setup that would not need an electrician to wire anything. You just get the Ethernet cables I recommend above on Amazon and install yourself.
Again, you will only know if your system has low-EMI by measuring with an electric field meter at your computer once everything is setup. I recommend the meter to do this above in the article.
Jeromy
Antonio
I think this is little too much over reaction, I have a Gigabit router and I’m going to get Gigabit internet very soon. I understand that Wifi has a EMF radiation (I turn off my WiFi before I go to bed), but ethernet too? This article only applies to people that are highly sensitive, right?
Jeromy
Good question.
In general, this website offers advice to people who have some level of electrical sensitivity. To that end, I have received hundreds of emails/comments from people who say that the above procedure has helped them to use their computer much longer without symptoms. This has been the case for me as well.
If you are not electrically sensitive, then the perhaps the technique outlined above does seem overblown. However, I wasn’t electrically sensitive for 15 years of heavy computer/WiFi/cell phone use. Then I was. I wish I could go back and reduce some of those exposures by taking a few simple steps in important areas (such as the process above).
EMI or power quality is just as important as WiFi exposure when it comes to our health, if not more. However, most people are not ready to look at this yet (unless they have to).
Jeromy
Rebecka
I saw your lecture at TEDx Talks on YouTube. I don’t know if I’m hypersensitive, but I’m still worried about EMF (I may have unexplained headaches and fatigue, but it’s difficult to know the reason behind it for sure). My dad has undergone an operation of his testicles after wearing a smartphone in his pants pocket for almost 3 years. This is a conclusion he himself has drawn. Most mock me when I try to discuss EMF online. Only a few seem to take my concerns seriously.
I’m now trying to reduce my cell phone usage. I’ll invest in a real camera so I don’t need to use a phone to take pictures and shoot videos. Now I only need a cell phone that exposes me for as little EMF as possible, but I don’t know which one to choose.
Should I choose a feature phone or a smartphone or it doesn’t matter? Should I care about the SAR values even though it’s not the best measurement tool of EMF? I know that Samsung has the lowest SAR values. First, I thought I’d buy a GSM phone (2G/Edge) for just calling and sending text messages, but then I’ve read that it’s not necessarily the best. Apparently, good coverage is good for reducing EMF (better coverage would mean less EMF due to strong signal strength). True? Since the GSM network is being phased out, I assume that a 4G/LTE phone is better in that regard.
Which phone do you use? I understand that the use of mobile phones should be reduced first and foremost, as well as keeping distance (I can’t find any headphones with air tube in Sweden but I’ll check outside of Sweden/EU). I think that there must be worse and better alternatives.
Last but not least, the Internet connection at home. We have had mobile broadband for several years now. First we had a USB modem in the computer, but since 2013 we have a Wi-Fi router for connecting multiple devices. I understand that this is bad. Unfortunately, we don’t have access to a fiber network and the property we live in shows no interest for it either. We may move away from here, but at this time, this is not an option we have.
So what can I do instead? Does it matter if I use a modem for the data card instead of a Wi-Fi router, and drag a network cable from it to the computer? Or is it pointless when it’s still a mobile network? How is broadband via the telephone jacket? Is it better than mobile broadband? This will be replaced by the fiber network in the future but that’s fine.
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
A few points/articles that may help you out.
1.) You can have pretty much any phone you want, but it’s how you use it (and how much you can not use it). SAR really means very little. You never want to put a cell phone next to your body. I list the ways to reduce your exposure here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/headsets/
2.) I do have a phone (an old Nokia – where you press the “7” four times to type an “S”) for the occasional text message. I’ll go three weeks without turning it on and have not taken a call or used a smart phone in six years (my friends email me on my wired computer). If the majority of people just used cell phones for important text messages (I’m running late, I had an accident, etc. . ), then we would need a fraction of the cell towers and the RF power density would drop exponentially in our cities. We would have a healthy society again. I see this for our future, once society wakes up to this problem.
3.) For your internet at home, the main thing is that you have a wired modem/router and that you are bringing the data to your computers via Ethernet. If you must get the data from the provider using wireless, then put the modem/router far away from you. I list how to setup a wired internet system in the article above and here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
4.) Hopefully you can get some good EMF meters to check out your home. I list the ones I recommend here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/recommended-emf-meters/
Keep in touch!
Jeromy
Rebecka
1. & 2.) I understand what you are saying. SAR-values does not mean as much as how I use my phone or how often I use my phone.
I have decided to ditch my smartphone for now, and go with a feature phone. Now I will automatically use the phone less because of that. But, if I do all these things (I use it less, using headset with airtube or phone speaker, put it on airplane mode when its on my body), isn’t low SAR values a bonus then? Or no?
I have just found a flip phone (2G/GSM network only) with 0,583 W/kg (body)/0,249 W/kg (head). I don’t think I have seen this low values in forever (probably EU values, not sure).
As for headset with air tube, I don’t like all headsets (in-ear style). So I wonder if the Ferrite Snap Beads is a good option? I did find them on Amazon UK and they are cheap (I could also give a pair to my dad):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=ferrite+snap+beads
I only attach these to my prefered wired headset?
3.) I will have to think about this. The placement of the Wi-Fi router, but also if I should buy a Wi-Fi router with ethernet port so I can run a cable from the Wi-Fi router to my computer. It should be better then Wi-Fi even if the data is coming from the outside/a cell tower?
We will switch to fiber network when we can. Then we ditch Wi-Fi completely and use cables.
4.) I have actually been checking them out. I have looked them up on Amazon UK and DE but they are quite expensive for me right now.
I found this one in Sweden:
https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/verktyg/matinstrument/specialinstrument/emf-detektor-p48206
Not sure if you understand what it says, but it measures 1-10 mG. Could it be a good start?
If you download the PDF called “Manual – Engelsk” on the product page, the manual is in English.
Thank you so much for taking you time to answer my questions.
Rebecka
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
1.) I would not use a cell phone for calls anymore. Only text messages. Use a landline at home or a wired computer with Skype. This is what I have done for nearly six years and it works great.
2.) The Ferrite Beads don’t do as well as an airtube headset. So, try to get an airtube headset that you like if you can. Then get an extension cord so the phone is farther away from your body (if you do use it for calls).
3.) Yes, definitely get a router where you can run and Ethernet cable to your computer. The lowest EMF setup for internet is in the article above.
4.) The meter you link to above is only a Gauss meter. It measures just magnetic fields (not RF). If you want an inexpensive all-in-one meter, this is the best one to get:
http://www.radmeters.com/Cornet-ED88TPlus-esh.html
All my best and keep in touch,
Jeromy
Rebecka
1.) That’s impressive. No calls for six years. I admit, I rarely make phone calls, but sometimes “I have to”. They are usually short because I pay by minute (no free calls for me). Only when I receive calls, they become longer.
2.) I was afraid of that. I want a pair of headset that goes in-ear but not like earplugs like most do. I prefer headset like the ones I have now which is Philips SHQ1200PK. The shape reminds of Apple EarPods. I could even accept a round shape, as long as it does not go into my ear canal.
I was thinking, should I use air tube headset even with my computer? Even if the computer is wired? Because if so, I would prefer a over-ear headset at home.
I can also use the phone speaker (and external speakers for my computer). But sometimes I just want to be private. That’s when the headsets come in.
3.) Ok, that sounds great. I hope I can get fiber one day soon, but until then I buy a Wi-Fi router with ethernet port(s). I won’t use Wi-Fi but I’m not sure I can get my dad off Wi-Fi yet. We turn it off at night at least, or when not in use.
4.) Thanks for clarifying. I will take a look at that one.
Rebecka
Rebecka
I’m not fond of this in-ear style but I guess they would do the job?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012FXSAOW/?coliid=I1NX1L0WO65JQR&colid=TKNXQC1CEFTB
Rebecka
Here are other ones but more expensive:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078TGGMB6/?coliid=IPES4ATSJ6UIB&colid=TKNXQC1CEFTB
I assume both would work.
Jeromy
This should work. You can also have the brands seen in #1 here shipped to you in Sweden:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/products/
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Deborah
Hi Rebecka,
Try these low emission headsets. They aren’t wonderful, but much more comfortable than most and they don’t fall out of my ears!
https://harapad.com/shop/laptop/low-emission-headset/
Deborah
Dragonfly
Hi,
I am towards the end of the process of deciding what to get for the home Ethernet wiring system I mentioned earlier. I am running the wires through the skirting, then when I get to the doors I am planning to run them under the doors. We will then be putting tiles onto the floors, hence I will not be able to access the wires running under the doors anymore. I am thinking of running the wires trough a tube when they cross the doors, since it will allow me to access the wires afterwards from either end of the tube, and it will protect the wires, and it will add extra shielding effect if I use the correct material. What material would you suggest I use? Is copper a good idea, as opposed to plastic, aluminium or steel? Would it provide more shielding? Does it matter that copper is electrically conductive and will there be any heating issues? I do not yet have the device and items in order to test the shielding so thought I’d ask your opinion since you have experience in this field.
I also wanted to ask further about the grounding of the wires from the switch. My wires will be individually running from the switch through the patch panel and then around the house to the ports (wall sockets). I will be grounding the whole patch panel (this sits between the switch and the wall sockets). Will that do the job; or do I need further grounding? And if I need further grounding, could I then individually ground each wires as it crosses from the switch to the patch panel? Will that have the required affect?
Thank you, I appreciate your help.
Jeromy
Hey Dragonfly,
A few thoughts:
1.) If you are using shielded Cat-7 Ethernet like I recommend above, you will not need much additional shedding. To be safe, you could put in EMT conduit. That would really do the trick.
2.) You really need to measure this in order to know whether your shielding is doing any good or making things worse. You always find interesting things when you do this type of work.
3.) For shielding material, I would look at the AL-60 wall shield in #7 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/fabrics/
4.) I ground each individual Ethernet line after the TP-Link Ethernet switch. You only need to ground the lines that you are using at your computer(s).
If you have questions on your project, you can book a Skype, phone or email consult here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
That will help me get more specific with your situation and helps support my work.
Keep in touch,
Jeromy
Rebecka
I don’t know where on your website I read it, but somewhere you wrote that Mac radiate more EMF than PC. Do you mean MacBooks’ or even iMacs’? Is it when Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth is turned on?
I’m going to sell my MacBook Pro to buy a desktop computer (mostly because of ergonomics, price and since I use my MBP as a desktop computer anyway). I have considered a PC, but the reason I still leans towards an iMac is because of video editing and I think I prefer iMovie and Final Cut Pro.
If I buy an iMac and connect to the Internet through wired Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi, turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, could it not be low-EMF? I could replace the Magic Keyboard and Magic Mouse 2 with a wired keyboard and mouse from another brand, since these are Bluetooth wireless (they might look nice but they don’t look to be ergonomic anyway).
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
I write about that in #5 here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/low-emf-computing/
Many ES people react to Apple computers more so. If you are not ES and you need the Mac software for your work/business, then the setup you mention above with the iMac should not be a problem.
Distance is your friend with EMFs, along with turning off all of the wireless capabilities.
Jeromy
Rebecka
Thank you for the link.
It doesn’t sound good that people react more to Apple computers. I’m not ES myself. I don’t react to anything as far as I know, but I don’t feel good or too healthy either, so I think I would do myself and others a favor if I minimize the EMF pollution in my home.
Yes, distance and turning off everything wireless should perhaps be good enough.
Rebecka
Rebecka
Hello again.
Do you know anything about the Mac mini? I know it has not been updated for a while and we don’t know if it will ever be updated either.
Do you think that the current Mac mini would be a better choice than an iMac?
I will still buy wired keyboard and mouse from another brand and I could buy a Dell UltraSharp U2415 screen to go with it.
Do you know what people with EHS say about the current Mac mini models?
Rebecka
Rebecka
I should probably mention that I’m considering buying a used Mac mini from late 2012. This is because you can upgrade its RAM and HDD/SSD, which you can’t in the newer ones.
Jeromy
Hi Rebecka,
The best advice is always to try it out for yourself and see how you do with the machine and how it works for you. There is no clear cut answer for this as every person is different.
My best,
Jeromy
Lisa
Regarding CAT7 vs CAT6, can you give a recommendation? Is the CAT7 worth the money?
Thanks,
Lisa
Jeromy
Hi Lisa,
Both work from a shielding perspective. However, for grounding you want a cable with metal ends. This is why I recommend the flat CAT7 cables above in the article. If you can find CAT6 cables with metal ends, they will work too.
Jeromy
Brad
I have Verizon. How do I turn off the Wi-Fi if the Modem and Router are in one box? I have DSL. I don’t think they let you use items separate. Would I just buy longer wire like you mentioned and put the box even further away from my Desktop?
Jeromy
Hi Brad,
I have not worked with a Verizon modem/router combo yet. Could you call them and ask how to or if it is possible to disable the WiFi in the router? They may be able to give you a wired-only modem. Then you can use your own router (wired if possible) as I mention in this article.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-install-wired-internet-in-your-home/
Do you have an RF meter to test if the WiFi is off? Get either of these:
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/Acousticom2.aspx
http://slt.co/Products/RFDetectors/CornetED88TPlus.aspx
Use the code EMFA-10 at checkout for a 10% discount.
Keep me posted.
Jeromy
Gwen
I also have a modem/router in one box from Comcast/Xfinity. It’s their XB6-A model, and I did find out that the WiFi can be turned off thru my account on the Comcast website. Do I still need to get the two-ethernet-cable system you recommend since I don’t need the switch?
I will also need a USB adapter to plug the Ethernet cable into my Macbook Pro laptop. Is there anything special to be concerned about in choosing an adapter?
Thanks so much Jeromy!
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for writing/asking. There are a few key points to your comment that I will address here:
1.) We have seen many people “turn off” their WiFi through their Comcast account and run into problems. There appears to be a system-wide Xfinity reset every couple weeks that turns it back on automatically (likely for software updates). Unless you have an RF meter and you are checking it regularly, odds are the WiFi is still blasting. Furthermore, there is the “community” WiFi aspect of Comcast Xfinity that serves people walking by your house. This may still be on, even if you think you are turning off all of the WiFi.
Read the update of this article to learn more about this and see what wired Comcast modem is better for you:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
2.) With whatever modem you do use, I would still use the Ethernet switch and grounding adapter mentioned above in the main article. This will reduce the EMI coming to your devices (which is quite important as you will see below).
3.) For Apple adapters, see what I outline in this article. It is usually best to use Apple hardware with Apple devices.
https://www.emfanalysis.com/how-to-wire-an-ipad/
4.) Finally, many people react to MacBook Pro and MacBook Air computers. Some even become electrically sensitive because of these computers. It is part of the design with the aluminium case and how it conducts electric fields coming from the Ethernet system and power source. Below is a video that demonstrates this. I would always operate your MacBook Pro on battery power, ground your Ethernet system (per article above) and use an external keyboard and mouse (wired with plastic keys – not the Apple version). Of course, don’t use WiFi either. This should make your Apple computer much more EMF friendly.
The video about MacBook Computers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zyk0zWlEKI
Note that this phenomenon does not happen with non-Apple plastic cased computers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xy33EEX52U
Hope this all helps (and was not too much more than you asked for!).
Jeromy
Gwen
Thanks so much for your guidance – I will look into all of this!
Gwen
I looked into getting getting the Arris modem you recommended, but it looks like Comcast no longer has these available at all. Looks like the best option is to go with the Netgear N600 (since I need occasional wireless.) Will the low and high frequency EMI on the ethernet cables that you warn about be anything I can do anything about? Will the ground adapter help with that?
Upon researching the Netgear N600 it appears that it only has one on/off power switch, not a separate switch to turn the wifi on/off. I was hoping to have a system that would allow for a simply on/off when I want to access wireless, or not. Do you know of another router/modem combo that will offer this?
And if I have the router/modem combo will I still need the 2 ethernet cables with a switch? I wasn’t clear on the purpose of the switch
I have ordered a wired keyboard. Thanks so much Jeromy – can’t wait to have this in place!
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
I’ve answered most of your questions below. For your specific networking questions, please send me an email. I have an affordable email or Skype consulting rate that helps make my work sustainable:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/work-with-me/
All my best,
Jeromy
Gwen
I talked to Comcast and at this point it seems the do NOT have any of the older Arris modems available. The tech guy did say I could use the bridge mode wifi disabling process to turn it off on my existing modem/router (as well as the hotspot capacity) but from your article it sounds like this is not a sure thing. And I don’t want to have to wonder if the wifi is on. Sounds like the way to go is to get the Netgear N600?
I have a landline through Comcast, so am assuming that the Netgear N600 router/modem would work for my telephone service too – so that unit would be all I need, aside from the ethernet cables, etc.? I already had my landline number ported over to Comcast, so dropping that and going with Ooma doesn’t seem like it will save me much.
Although after having read the reviews on the Netgear N600 it looks like there is not an on/off switch for the wifi – just a power on/off for the unit. Hmmm. Want to make sure I get something with an easy physical switch to turn the wifi off/on. Any thoughts?
Jeromy
Hi Gwen,
Comcast does have wired only modems in stock. They are providing them to customers in the San Francisco Bay Area. Just have them ship one to you if you do not live near there. I list this at the top here:
https://www.emfanalysis.com/why-is-xfinity-wifi-harming-people/
When you are dealing with big corporations like Comcast, you often have to figure out ways to help the employees think outside the box. They have a certain way of doing things and anytime you disrupt this it can be difficult for them.
You can also buy your own modem that is compatible with Comcast. This will also save you the $10/month rental fee. Here is an article that list models that are compatible with Comcast. A Netgear option should be a good choice:
https://blog.chron.com/techblog/2014/06/want-to-use-your-own-modemrouter-with-comcast-heres-how/#24139101=0
This should help you find the right model too: https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/
A Netgear modem like this should work, but it doesn’t have the telephone ports. For that, it’s usually best to use one of Comcast’s wired modems:
https://amzn.to/2vViZ87
Regarding being able to turn off the WiFi, every Netgear router I have ever seen has this ability. It is usually just a button you press. If you get this one and it does not work, let me know. It shows here that there is a “On/Off” for WiFi (to save power):
https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/cable-modems-routers/C3700.aspx
Keep me posted,
Jeromy
Dave
Here in the UK I use Connectix double shielded cables particularly CAT6A SFTP (shielded AND foiled) types, they’re great at preventing ethernet based interference to other devices (and people) whilst also preventing external interference causing problems to the ethernet connection : )